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Unsorted Routes:

Charlie's Pillar 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Josh Gross
Page Views: 3,165
Submitted By: Danny Inman on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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BETA PHOTO: Heading into the darkness....

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts 20 feet or so to the left of Neat. Begin with an obvious flake and work up and under the fallen pillar, continue working up and left. You will pop out on the left side of the pillar, a few feet of chimney gets you to the ledge. The anchor is two pitons and one bolt. Overall this route is fun and is a departure from the spillters that surround it. Good warm up or down.

Protection 

Cams from .5" to 3"


Photos of Charlie's Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tracy starting out Charlie's Pillar. Looking out f...
Tracy starting out Charlie's Pillar. Looking out f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peeking out of the chimney just past the butt-squa...
Peeking out of the chimney just past the butt-squa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlie's Pillar is for chimney lovers.
Charlie's Pillar is for chimney lovers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool chimney/flake start to Charlie's Pillar.
Cool chimney/flake start to Charlie's Pillar.

Comments on Charlie's Pillar Add Comment
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By Bryson Slothower
Apr 28, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun mini adventure!

Perhaps a bolt was added but when I did the route in March 05 there were only two drilled piton for an anchor.

By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Denver, CO
May 3, 2005

We just did this climb in April 05, so they must have just recently added the bolt, which seems a lot more sturdy than the pitons........
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun, well protected chimney. (And yes, you will chimney some...) The exit is good fun transitioning from the chimney to sandy face holds.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
May 27, 2013

Misled by the guidebook, I took the offwidth start as opposed to the flake start. Does this have its own first ascent? It was good with fun chimneying and a full-on body jam near where the flake and larger crack meet up. Would suggest 5.9+ish for the "direct" start.
By Wes P
From: Reno, NV
Apr 20, 2014

Thanks for adding the anchor bolts- definitely more reassuring than the crusty old pitons up there. However, some cracks seem to be forming around the upper bolt. It probably should be monitored in the upcoming years and potentially retired.

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