Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Christian Brothers
Select Route:
Am I Evil? S 
Asterisk, The T 
Attic Antics T 
Barbecue The Pope S 
Blasphemy S 
Blue Balls T 
Bowling Alley T 
Boy Prophet S 
Catherine Finds An Edge S 
Charlie's Chimney T 
Child's Play T 
Culture of Fear S 
Dancer S 
Double Trouble S 
Dreamin' S 
Earth Boys S 
El Sancho S 
Golgotha T 
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 
Heathen's Highway T,S 
Heresy S 
Hesitation Blues T 
Holy Road, The S 
Irreverence S 
Jete S 
left side of the Beard, The T 
Little Indian Princess S 
Lunatic To Love S 
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 
New Testament T 
Nightingale's on Vacation S 
Old Testament T 
Overnight Sensation S 
Panic Attack S 
Rawhide S 
Revelations S 
right side of the Beard, The T 
Ring of Fire S 
Rude Boys S 
Rude Femmes S 
Scarface S 
Self Preservation Variation T 
Shoes of the Fisherman T 
Smooth Boy S 
That First Step S 
Toy Blocks T 
Toys In The Attic T 
Unknown 10c S 
Via Dolorosa S 
Wartley's Revenge T 

Charlie's Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 651
Submitted By: ferrells on Dec 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A potentially hair-raising 6 inch crack that is formed by the right side of the Combination Blocks leaning against the wall.
If my memory serves me, Watts says, 'Boldly layback the start'. Without 6 inch cams or big bros, this would be Bold indeed. I only had one 6 inch cam with me, and it was not easy to place in the crack that turned out to be mostly a little bigger than 6 inches. The crux is at about thirty feet, just before you pull over the lip halfway, so if you only have one, bring that baby with you to protect the crux. I ended up soloing that section, laybacking and smearing on birdshit, with my 6 inch cam 15 feet below me. The upper squeeze section is fun, clean, and a different flavor than most of Smith.
If you have the big cams, and know how to use them, this is a cool route.

Location 

Right side of Combination Blocks.

Protection 

Hand sized to 6 inch cams.


Comments on Charlie's Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By another Chad
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

To reinforce what is said above, yes, save that #6 (or 9" Valley Giant) for the end of the laybacking section. All the laybacking is mellow though there is an insecure move right at the top of the flake. Between the flake and the start of the chimney there's a pocket on the face that takes a #1 camalot perfectly. Above that a #4 can be placed at the bottom edge of the chimney. If you like tight chimneys and can overlook some bird shit you might enjoy the climb.


Chad