Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
The Christian Brothers
Select Route:
Am I Evil? 
Asterisk, The 
Attic Antics 
Barbecue The Pope 
Blue Balls 
Bowling Alley 
Boy Prophet 
Catherine Finds An Edge 
Charlie's Chimney 
Child's Play 
Culture of Fear 
Double Trouble 
Earth Boys 
El Sancho 
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp 
Heathen's Highway 
Hesitation Blues 
Holy Road, The 
left side of the Beard, The 
Little Indian Princess 
Lunatic To Love 
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The 
New Testament 
Nightingale's on Vacation 
Old Testament 
Overnight Sensation 
Panic Attack 
right side of the Beard, The 
Ring of Fire 
Rude Boys 
Rude Femmes 
Self Preservation Variation 
Shoes of the Fisherman 
Smooth Boy 
That First Step 
Toy Blocks 
Toys In The Attic 
Unknown 10c 
Via Dolorosa 
Wartley's Revenge 

Charlie's Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 585
Submitted By: ferrells on Dec 28, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>


A potentially hair-raising 6 inch crack that is formed by the right side of the Combination Blocks leaning against the wall.
If my memory serves me, Watts says, 'Boldly layback the start'. Without 6 inch cams or big bros, this would be Bold indeed. I only had one 6 inch cam with me, and it was not easy to place in the crack that turned out to be mostly a little bigger than 6 inches. The crux is at about thirty feet, just before you pull over the lip halfway, so if you only have one, bring that baby with you to protect the crux. I ended up soloing that section, laybacking and smearing on birdshit, with my 6 inch cam 15 feet below me. The upper squeeze section is fun, clean, and a different flavor than most of Smith.
If you have the big cams, and know how to use them, this is a cool route.


Right side of Combination Blocks.


Hand sized to 6 inch cams.

Comments on Charlie's Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By another Chad
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

To reinforce what is said above, yes, save that #6 (or 9" Valley Giant) for the end of the laybacking section. All the laybacking is mellow though there is an insecure move right at the top of the flake. Between the flake and the start of the chimney there's a pocket on the face that takes a #1 camalot perfectly. Above that a #4 can be placed at the bottom edge of the chimney. If you like tight chimneys and can overlook some bird shit you might enjoy the climb.