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Unsorted Routes:

Charlie 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Steve McClure, Mike Doyle, Daniel DuLac, Sonnie Trotter in 2007 on preplaced gear.
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Oct 31, 2013

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Thrasher getting funky on Charlie.

Description 

This is the strikingly beautiful, left-leaning dihedral about 50 feet right of Loompa. The route basically breaks down to a 12a to a hard V6 boulder problem protected by reasonable but slightly tricky gear.

Begin below a single bolt about 10 feet left of the corner. Make long but easy face moves past the bolt and reach right into the very wide crack. Jam your torso into the crack and worm and lieback your way to some good jugs and a leg-wrap rest. The crack starts to pinch off a bit but some large angular features and the occasional fingerlock or pocket provide just enough to keep things reasonable.

About 60 feet up, the good holds disappear and the dihedral steepens. Work a wide stem and make use of the small tips crack, and some nice pockets around a blunt arete to reach a final, decent fingerlock rest. Set up on two more tips crimps and spring for a huge jug just above the anchors.


Location 

50 feet right of Loompa.


Protection 

Fixed gear- one bolt and two bolt anchor with carabiners.

Bring gear between and #4 Camelot to very small cams. Some nuts and RP's could be helpful too.



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