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75 Degree Wall 
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Charles in Charge 
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Finale, The 
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Syphilis Traverse 
Thinner Than Ice 
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Worst Crimps 
Unsorted Routes:

Charles in Charge 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+ [details]
FA: Charlie Henrikson
Page Views: 1,473
Submitted By: Greg DeMatteo on May 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Larz in charge


A great problem with distinctive moves. Start with undercling and a toe-cam (if tall enough) and make the long reach to unlikely slopers. Keep your feet on and toss for the jug.

Please clean your tick marks or do not use them at all!


Clean fall. Downclimb the pine tree, but be gentle!

Photos of Charles in Charge Slideshow Add Photo
Charles in Charge/Baseball Pitch boulder
BETA PHOTO: Charles in Charge/Baseball Pitch boulder

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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Nov 16, 2007
rating: V4-5 6B+

Cool problem, and unique! The lunge to the slopers is maybe a bit easier if you're above 6'1" or so. Certainly feels easier than the sucker problem, that I still can't figure out.. ?
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Mar 12, 2008

The Sucker problem is its own unique weirdness. I'm pretty sure most people send Charles before the Sucker, but I think the moves on Charles are ultimately more challenging. The Sucker is a right of passage.
By jefe
Mar 13, 2008

I may be biased, but i think Charles in Charge is deserving of more stars...Combined with Gun Shy and the Moonstone this little zone rules!
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 5, 2010

This was absolutely one of my favorites during my Prescott years. Probably have done it hundreds of times. I always matched on the slopey crimp dish, followed by a pseudo dyno! Classic body locking.
By Charlie Henrikson
May 1, 2012

What a trip seeing all this Groom beta. Takes me back. Who did the FA of this rad problem anyway?
By metcalfd
From: Reston VA
Oct 30, 2012

Love this problem! Definitely a project for me, but so cool!
By Colin Cox
Jun 28, 2014

I can't reach the crimp from the heel toe...so I've only done this problem once. Much harder I believe. Looks like a path with the heel/toe.
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