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Charity Case 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Smith 11/00
Page Views: 1,113
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Jakob enjoying charity case on a warm day in early...

Description 

A fun way to gain the routes on the upper ledge and a nice route on its own as well.

Start on a few tricky moves involving a few holds that aren't as clean as some might like. After this you get in to some clean rock with weird but fun moves for 15 feet or so and on to easier rock to the 2 bolt anchor.

From this belay you can climb the 5.11s above, Charity Toad which is an easy traverse right to gain White Toads last pitch, or you can head left to Wendell's Route and a few others.

Location 

30 feet or so left of the corner of White Toad look for a cleaned off section of rock (but not too clean as there is dirt and moss on both sides) that opens up to be nice and clean up higher.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Charity Case Slideshow Add Photo
jared and chloe
jared and chloe
The somewhat vegitated start of Charity Case.
The somewhat vegitated start of Charity Case.
jared finishing up the slab
jared finishing up the slab
Matt finally out of the vegetation and onto the cl...
BETA PHOTO: Matt finally out of the vegetation and onto the cl...

Comments on Charity Case Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Mar 23, 2013

Worthy route in its own right but we used it today to do Charity Toad which is GREAT! This one was a bit wet but we're excited to get back on it when it's completely dry. We found you can make it harder than it really is if you don't find some jugs which seemed hidden.
By J Meagher
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think this is super fun for the grade. I love the tricky slab, it has a cool semi-hidden hold and a very useful heel hook. Much better than it looks from the ground
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Nov 15, 2013

J Meagher: at the top of this one, traverse right past two bolts to an anchor and nice belay ledge. Finish up the 3rd pitch of White Toad (5.8) -- it's a real nice continuation.
By S. Neoh
Nov 15, 2013

Cool. Got to try that next time. I've only gone straight up and to the left.
By Ming
Jul 1, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Crux moves are way easier than Gold Digger, which is rated at 5.8+, so how could it be 5.9? Sailed right past it the first time no problem. Got back on it again recently and it's fun but pretty casual. If you are a number chaser this could be a great first 5.9. Can anyone think of a softer 5.9 at Rumney?
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Jul 1, 2015

Ming, for what it's worth the thin crux of Gold Digger definitely feels harder than Charity Case for me as well. I wouldn't scoff at someone calling Charity a 5.8. As for a softer 5.9, I've only been on it once but I remember feeling that Sea Breeze up at the Crow's Nest was a stretch to call it a 5.9.
By S. Neoh
Jul 3, 2015

Gold Digger is way harder than 5.8+ in my opinion. CC is a one-move 5.9 to me. The rest is fun and good quality. A give-me 5.9 at Rumney? No such thing!
BITD, Night Crawler was considered intro 5.9 but it is sharp and can be painful to climb on.
For me, Left El Diego, Rock du Jour Direct, and Smokestack are standouts at the .9 grade but I am sure I have omitted about other worthy ones.
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