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Chariots on Fire 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: josh horniak / mike carville
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,078
Submitted By: mike carville on Feb 16, 2013

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Start of the 2nd pitch.


Pitch 1: Cruxy face move at fourth bolt leads to super fun enduro climbing to anchors .11c

Pitch 2: Progressively harder face limbing leads to a boulder move to get established on tricky arete .12a.


Two pitches. Just left of center - Twin Towers.



Photos of Chariots on Fire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the entire 2nd pitch.
BETA PHOTO: View of the entire 2nd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rusty and Alex on frist pitch of Chariots on Fire ...
Rusty and Alex on frist pitch of Chariots on Fire ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh cleaning/bolting Chariots on Fire .11b/c and ...
Josh cleaning/bolting Chariots on Fire .11b/c and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rusty on frist pitch of Chariots on Fire .11c
Rusty on frist pitch of Chariots on Fire .11c
Rock Climbing Photo: My friend was able to capture a pic of the huge ro...
BETA PHOTO: My friend was able to capture a pic of the huge ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rusty and Jimmy Thornburg starting up pitch one .1...
Rusty and Jimmy Thornburg starting up pitch one .1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Twin Towers, climbing on chariots of fire, 2 pitch...
Twin Towers, climbing on chariots of fire, 2 pitch...

Comments on Chariots on Fire Add Comment
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By Salamanizer
From: Vacaville Ca.
Mar 2, 2013

Oh man, I'm so freakin bummed! I eyeballed this line and started working the first moves a few months ago but never went back to start cleaning and bolting. I got rained out the day I dropped a line down it. Now it sports bolts to the 100ft line almost exactly where I envisioned it would go.

I hope you all are going to work on the second pitch as well, strait through that dihedral thing up high.

Oh well, you snooze ya loose. Can't wait to climb it.
By mike carville
Mar 27, 2013

shoot - sorry about that. we figured folks must have been looking at it but due to years of closure figured it fell off the radar. it now has a second pitch .11d. up and left to a big blunt arete to chains. fun route - i think you'll like it!
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Apr 21, 2013

Another great route, but at the end of the day, I was wasted for the second pitch. It did feel a bit harder than the 12A out front. This one is still dirty too. Should clean up well with some traffic.

Got on this again, and took off another 50 pounds of rock before the arete. There is a good route in there someplace. Getting onto the arete is 11+ or 12 A.
By 2nd favourite Englishman
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Did the second pitch but not clean. I think it might be 11d if you know where to go but the arete is very devious and I was never sure if you should be left or right. Next time!
Great line and pretty wild to be 200 feet up a dead vertical cliff climbing a wild arete in our little local quarry. Nice work. Probably 12a to onsight I think?
By mike carville
Apr 26, 2013

probably so - it's hard to get on the arete and then tricky to stay on it.
By Rennie Putnam
From: Davis, CA
Oct 18, 2014

Finally got on the second pitch today, what a fantastic climb. Be careful, as a few key holds are very loose and will come off at some point.
By Stephen Laird
From: San Francisco, California
Mar 8, 2015

Really fun route. I got to agree with the rest of the comments that this climb is still very dirty. Right before the Arete, I went left a bit and saw a microwave size piece of dirty rock that was visibly cracked and looked ready to fall. With just a tad of wiggle I knew it had to go. Making sure no one was below, I pulled this sucker down and it made a thunderous smash below. This route definitely needs more traffic (better yet a rappel from the top to just remove as much loose rock as possible). Until then, I would advise anyone considering climbing this wall to not climb any climbs below this pitch if someone is already attempting the 2nd pitch of this climb. It's a death zone below. Also belaying as far right as possible to avoid rock-fall is a must. Be careful out there. It's chossy.

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