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Rappel Rock
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Baradur T 
Bender-Axen T 
Black Magic Woman T 
Black Quacker T 
Charadras T 
Chiboni T 
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 
Corner, The T 
Helm's Deep T 
Lude T 
Not So Easy Arch T 
Other Way, The T 
Quick Death T 
Standard Route T 
Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Rich Thompson, Gary Axen, Kem Johnson '74
Season: spring season closure
Page Views: 1,625
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    20' Left of the obvious 3'-4' left arching corner (Rotissima Bueno) is a 20' ramp leading to a 20' crack/flake system. The route climbs this crack/flake then a series of ribs then connects into the Rotissima corner at about 65'. Continue up the corner then through some steep moves to stand atop a horn and a spicy move for short folks to a good hold. (although you can step left according to the guide book authors Steiger, EFR et al). Continue up to a ledge system 7' below a bush (belay to down to the right on ledge). A really good 5.7 adventure with traditional Mt Lemmon pro. See the pro section.

    There are no permanent anchors on the ledge and it requires 2 ropes to touch the ground. An easier escape is to trend left up a 5.5 crack to the giant "Orange Slice" corner then go left to easy ground and off. I would recommend the "Not So Easy Arch" finish as a better quality exit.


    60' left of Black Quacker, just left of Rotissima Bueno at Rap rock's base


    Stoppers, 9/16" shoulder slings, TCU's to 1.5", and camming units to 3". Save a #5 "wc rock" for the moves getting to the corner up high. The gear is solid and a leader should install TCU's both with 2 cams to left and 2 cams to right to see which orientation is most solid. Expect to do a move or two with gear at your feet.

    Comments on Charadras Add Comment
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    By adrian korosec
    From: tucson,az
    Oct 29, 2010

    I thought this route was stiff for the grade. Granted, did it off the couch, but it kept me on my toes.

    To be done as a first lead at the grade? I don't think so.
    By Alex McIntyre
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Aug 14, 2013

    This route is absolutely wild.
    By Andrew Megas-Russell
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Feb 11, 2015

    I agree with Adrian... I thought the gear placements were a little small/sparse (typical classic mt. lemmon style) and I would not recommend this as a first lead for any budding trad leader. Standard Route/ Black Quacker would be a much better option for a new leader because there is more pro readily available. Either way, Rappel Rock hosts some of the better quality granite on the mountain!
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