|1,202 page views|
20' Left of the obvious 3'-4' left arching corner (Rotissima Bueno) is a 20' ramp leading to a 20' crack/flake system. The route climbs this crack/flake then a series of ribs then connects into the Rotissima corner at about 65'. Continue up the corner then through some steep moves to stand atop a horn and a spicy move for short folks to a good hold. (although you can step left according to the guide book authors Steiger, EFR et al). Continue up to a ledge system 7' below a bush (belay to down to the right on ledge). A really good 5.7 adventure with traditional Mt Lemmon pro. See the pro section.
There are no permanent anchors on the ledge and it requires 2 ropes to touch the ground. An easier escape is to trend left up a 5.5 crack to the giant "Orange Slice" corner then go left to easy ground and off. I would recommend the "Not So Easy Arch" finish as a better quality exit.
60' left of Black Quacker, just left of Rotissima Bueno at Rap rock's base
Stoppers, 9/16" shoulder slings, TCU's to 1.5", and camming units to 3". Save a #5 "wc rock" for the moves getting to the corner up high. The gear is solid and a leader should install TCU's both with 2 cams to left and 2 cams to right to see which orientation is most solid. Expect to do a move or two with gear at your feet.
Oct 29, 2010
I thought this route was stiff for the grade. Granted, did it off the couch, but it kept me on my toes.
To be done as a first lead at the grade? I don't think so.
|By Alex McIntyre|
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 14, 2013
This route is absolutely wild.