Chaos V7
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| Type: | Boulder, 12 feet |
| Consensus: | V7 [details] |
| FA: | John Freaney |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | sweatpants on Nov 2, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: The start
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Description Problem starts with a bomber ledge for feet off to the right of start hands. Thrutch out left to increasingly good crimps. From there head up to increasingly better holds to top out.
Location thru saddle. take a right and it is not far down on the right. It is apparently on the same wall and to the left of the 'project' i think. It is also just before the 'dicey' problems and also 'jump for joy'
Protection pad on ground and one on rock directly behind you.
first move, tiny crimp.
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By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Nov 2, 2008
| pics to come. i thought this was the project but i dont think it was... o well. lol. |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Nov 4, 2008
| also, im not sure about the grade. is suited me as it was souldery and utilized a heel hook for several moves. It could be harder but i dont think it's easier. or it could just be the right grade but lets be honest... how often does that happen? haha |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Nov 17, 2008
| Nice work Sweaty!- looks like a good, hard boulder problem. Cheers! |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Nov 17, 2008
| Thanks bud! Now I just need some people to go up there to get on it to see how hard the thing actually is... |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Nov 18, 2008
| thank you sir. props to Lisa Versino for those! I can't remember how much work you gave it when you were there? Thoughts on how it felt at all? Id like to make it back up there at some point to do some more looking around for sure. really awsome area. Not to mention the dogs loved it. |
By Brian Runnells Dec 2, 2008
| I couldn't get off the ground really. I'll have to try it fresher to have a better idea. |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Dec 3, 2008
| its cause you're not manly enough to climb my problems... o wait you've climbed most all of them. haha. |
By SteveSchultz Mar 20, 2009
| Very good problem John!!! Was really close to the send yesterday and it should go down next time i'm out there. Got all the moves worked out and now just need to put it together. Really cool, powerful crimping. I like it. Cant comment too much about the grade right now as I haven't done it but it seems pretty solid at 7 points in my opinion. Who cares really, when the problem is so fun? |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Mar 21, 2009
| That's great man, I'm glad you liked it! Did you explore at all or find anything new? |
By TravisMelin From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI May 7, 2009
| Finally Freany has established a legitimate problem. This thing is hard! Good work sweaty. Thanks for the beta out there today. |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO May 7, 2009
| I hate u. Thank u. And ur welcome. |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO May 30, 2010
| congrats to eggnuts on the coveted and long awaited second ascent!!!!!! Well done sir. |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI May 31, 2010 rating: V7
| Yes! Thanks Sweaty, nice eye on this line and on Jump For Joy. Matt and I both agreed Jump for Joy would be classic at any area. Getting off the ground and to the crimps out left on Chaos was the crux, very hard moves, solid/hard V7 IMO. I fell off up higher once for inexplicable reasons; you can imagine the cursing that ensued. Fortunately it went the next go or I would have had to quit climbing permanently. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Jun 1, 2010
| Nice Chris! |
By Skyler Frickelton From: La Crosse, WI Jan 12, 2012
| I'm sad to inform that part of the starting hold has broken. It was the right hand thumb catch. Although there is a small piece of it remaining, I believe it makes the pinch a bit harder to grasp. As I was unable to even get my ass off the ground, someone else will have to determine if the grade of the problem should be raised. |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Jan 13, 2012 rating: V7
| Skyler I have 2 thoughts about this. 1) You and Jeremy need to go to weight watchers before climbing any more classic Wisconsin boulder problems. 2) Thanks for cleaning up the problem and making it harder. We need more hard problems around here. However, the true Wisconsin way of dealing with this would be to stay silent, then laugh to yourself over the next several years when people loudly complain that this problem is a sandbag. |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Jan 16, 2012
| Bummer! |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Aug 10, 2012
| not sure I understand homie... doesn't everyone start this as a sit start? |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Aug 10, 2012 rating: V7
| Sweaty, yes, everyone sit starts, but I think Ian is saying that the broken start hold (see Skyler's comment above) only made it a touch harder. |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Aug 10, 2012
| ahh. I see. |
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