Chaos Canyon Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Mid May in Chaos Canyon.
This is an organizational entry for RMNP mixed/ice to help clarify the database and potentially entice those with more knowledge to submit more info on routes upstream from Chaos Creek. At times, there is clearly a long line that forms at the high end of the canyon above Lake Haiyaha. I've heard rumors of ice above Lake Haiyaha. Clearly, some determination will be required to travel above Chaos Creek
Just for clarity, this is the canyon/drainage to the south of Hallett Peak.
From the eastern side of RMNP, drive Bear Lake Rd to its end. For Chaos Creek
hike to Nymph Lake with some bushwhacking. There is a side approach from the trail between Nymph Lake & Dream Lake which may require crossing some fairly-steep, snow-loaded slopes. There is a summer trail that goes left from Dream Lake to Lake Haiyaha, but it may not get packed down much in the colder months.
Weather station 9.5 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Chaos Canyon
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chaos Canyon:
Featured Route For Chaos Canyon
: CO Ice & Mixed
: ... : Chaos Creek
P1: A striking crack takes solid tool cams but with sketchy feet, especially as it moves out of a shallow alcove. A hand jam might help here. It's a cruxy start! Then get better tool strikes on hummock/dirt and chockstones above, with a rest halfway up. Make a few more moves in the crack before angling slightly left on good hooks and up over a small roof to a tree belay. It is sustained, pumpy, and engaging climbing.P2: Immediately above the tree belay is an obvious, black corner. This is thin! ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Chaos Canyon
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Nancy Bell on the approach to Chaos Couloir.