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Chaos Canyon

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Chaos Creek 
Hallett South Side 

Chaos Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,600'
Location: 40.30337, -105.66016 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 17,342
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 24, 2006
Thanksgiving Day

18° | 6°

15° | 2°

25° | 12°

25° | 13°

22° | 14°

28° | 14°
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BETA PHOTO: Mid May in Chaos Canyon.


This is an organizational entry for RMNP mixed/ice to help clarify the database and potentially entice those with more knowledge to submit more info on routes upstream from Chaos Creek. At times, there is clearly a long line that forms at the high end of the canyon above Lake Haiyaha. I've heard rumors of ice above Lake Haiyaha. Clearly, some determination will be required to travel above Chaos Creek.

Just for clarity, this is the canyon/drainage to the south of Hallett Peak.

Getting There 

From the eastern side of RMNP, drive Bear Lake Rd to its end. For Chaos Creek hike to Nymph Lake with some bushwhacking. There is a side approach from the trail between Nymph Lake & Dream Lake which may require crossing some fairly-steep, snow-loaded slopes. There is a summer trail that goes left from Dream Lake to Lake Haiyaha, but it may not get packed down much in the colder months.

Climbing Season

Weather station 9.5 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Chaos Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chaos Canyon:
Chaos Couloir   Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 7 pitches   Hallett South Side
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Chaos Canyon

Featured Route For Chaos Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Shaqtoolik P1.

Shaqtoolik M6+  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Chaos Creek
P1: A striking crack takes solid tool cams but with sketchy feet, especially as it moves out of a shallow alcove. A hand jam might help here. It's a cruxy start! Then get better tool strikes on hummock/dirt and chockstones above, with a rest halfway up. Make a few more moves in the crack before angling slightly left on good hooks and up over a small roof to a tree belay. It is sustained, pumpy, and engaging climbing.P2: Immediately above the tree belay is an obvious, black corner. This is thin! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Chaos Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nancy Bell on the approach to Chaos Couloir.
Nancy Bell on the approach to Chaos Couloir.

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