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Changing the Stripes Buttress
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Changing the Stripes 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Jason Stevens & Virgil Ash
New Route: Yes
Season: All Seasons, Best in Spring & Fall
Page Views: 2,625
Submitted By: Jason Stevens on May 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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leading the final pitch

This area is located on private property.

Description 

P1:om the starting platform, climb up and into a
crack system. Stay left of the crack/coner (5.5) and
top out on the bulge at the first anchor station (50’).

P2: Climb a long angle, faint arete to a couple of
vertical steps. A short patina face leads to a couple
more steps and the next anchor station (5.5).

P3: Continue up the arete, clip a long sling on the
last bolt and top out on a platform. Move right
to the left leaning ramp/arete a follow it up and
through the slot to the summit. (5.4).

Location 

Park at or near Anti-Gravity Rock (two
turns in the road below Box Canyon). Cross the creek
and stay left of a huge boulder and bush-whack
north up the draw. The vegetation is thick and there
is no trail as of 4.18.09. When you near some large
boulders on your right, move right and skirt the base
of the cliff. When “Heart Rock” comes into view above
you, climb a shallow gully on your left to a platform
roughly 30’ above the trees.

Protection 

Bolts. Take long slings for the belay stations. A couple of long slings are helpful to reduce rope drag at the top of the pillar on P3.

You can do the entire route with one 60M rope. Sign the summit register!


Photos of Changing the Stripes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Amazing view from the top!
Amazing view from the top!
Rock Climbing Photo: Virgil Ash on the third pitch.
Virgil Ash on the third pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Virgil Ash signing the summit register.
Virgil Ash signing the summit register.
Rock Climbing Photo: Inside the summit register
Inside the summit register
Rock Climbing Photo: Virgil Ash approaching the second belay station.
Virgil Ash approaching the second belay station.
Rock Climbing Photo: view from the top
view from the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan belaying pitch 1
Megan belaying pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Cobble with a big edge on pitch 1; Megan climbing
Cobble with a big edge on pitch 1; Megan climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Maple Canyon
Maple Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Changing the Stripes from the road
BETA PHOTO: Changing the Stripes from the road
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan rappelling from the summit
Megan rappelling from the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Changing the Stripes, pitch 1
Changing the Stripes, pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Changing the Stripes, pitch 1
Changing the Stripes, pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Kev topping out
Kev topping out
Rock Climbing Photo: Changing the Stripes, descending
Changing the Stripes, descending
Rock Climbing Photo: rapping down pitch 1
rapping down pitch 1

Comments on Changing the Stripes Add Comment
Show which comments
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

As you drive up the canyon on the right you'll see a huge wall and at the top of the wall you'll see a formation in the shape of a heart. This is heart rock. Directly left of it is a wall that holds this climb. I'll take a pic next time I'm up there. There is a pullout to the right, some old campfire. We cairned the trail up to it.
By tenesmus
May 16, 2011

wait. I thought it was shaped like a heart?
By Alex Abramov
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 11, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Super easy, super safe. This is a good route for very beginners and gym climbers. 5.4 (at a stretch, definitely 5.1 in terms of Yosemite or Tahquitz)
By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The approach is far harder than anything on the climb, otherwise this route would get more stars. Make no mistake, you will be tree-to-treeing up the slope to the climb so plan accordingly. Alex Abramov's photo in the beta section is taken from the pullout under the heart shaped rock. Enter the dry creek-bed in the back of the pullout and walk upstream a few hundred feet. There is a cairn on the right bank. Turn and scramble up the "trail" up to the base of the climb. Rap twice with a 70m rope, otherwise rap thrice.
By Jeff Hofheins 1
From: Portland, OR
Jul 6, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The approach still doesn't really have any sort of trail. Lots of bushwacking!
By Emerson Takahashi
Aug 30, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT TRAILS THAT LEAD UP TO THE BASE OF THE CLIMB.
Take the trail marked by a cairn a little downhill of the campsite. This trail is fairly steep. Even though it seems like you head in the wrong direction for a little while, stay on the trail! Stay to the right of the big boulders and you'll be ok. It was our first time going up to CTS, and we were able to follow the trail without a problem(other than being exhausted!)

When you are done with the route, take the OTHER TRAIL that leads straight downward from the base of the climb that is a little steeper. Use this as the descent and get back to your car within 2-3 minutes. Be careful, its steep and the dirt is loose- you might fall on your ass.

This route might as well be 4 pitches :P
By Dallas R
From: Traveling the USA
Mar 29, 2015

Turn out is also a little primitive campground. Wooden box sign says Private, donations accepted, climb at your own risk. Lugged boots for traction are better than approach shoes. Steep loose trail.

My partner says she is in love with whoever bolted the routes. Spaced 10-15 apart, easily spotted from the previous bolt, but eco-treated and difficult to spot from the belay station.

Summit log was pretty cool. Interesting to see where some of the folks that climbed this before you are from and what they had to say. 99% were stoked.

Climbing was pretty easy. Belay stations are comfortable for 2. A group would have issues. Raps are off the fall line. You have to work at staying on the arête to get to the anchors.

First time on conglomerate. Raised some rope drag issues. Up was ok, when we went to pull the rope from the rap we had lots of rope drag, had to pull hard. Then when the end fell, it did not follow the climb line, it fell sideways onto the conglomerate. A slight s curve caught a few nodules. We had our new rope that is still fairly slick, had we used old fluffy it could have been more interesting. Still took some flipping and tugging to get it loose.

This is a really good climb for people first starting out and wanting to test their skills in lead climbing multi-pitch. The low grade means you will concentrate more on managing a multi-pitch climb than on doing the climb.

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