Changing the Stripes 5.6
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| Type: | Sport, 3 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Jason Stevens & Virgil Ash |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | All Seasons, Best in Spring & Fall |
| Submitted By: | Jason Stevens on May 6, 2009 |
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Virgil Ash approaching the second belay station.
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This area is located on private property.
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Description P1:om the starting platform, climb up and into a
crack system. Stay left of the crack/coner (5.6) and
top out on the bulge at the first anchor station (50’).
P2: Climb a long angle, faint arete to a couple of
vertical steps. A short patina face leads to a couple
more steps and the next anchor station (5.5).
P3: Continue up the arete, clip a long sling on the
last bolt and top out on a platform. Move right
to the left leaning ramp/arete a follow it up and
through the slot to the summit. (5.4).
Location Park at or near Anti-Gravity Rock (two
turns in the road below Box Canyon). Cross the creek
and stay left of a huge boulder and bush-whack
north up the draw. The vegetation is thick and there
is no trail as of 4.18.09. When you near some large
boulders on your right, move right and skirt the base
of the cliff. When “Heart Rock” comes into view above
you, climb a shallow gully on your left to a platform
roughly 30’ above the trees.
Protection Bolts. Take long slings for the belay stations. A couple of long slings are helpful to reduce rope drag at the top of the pillar on P3.
You can do the entire route with one 60M rope. Sign the summit register!
Virgil Ash on the third pitch.
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Virgil Ash signing the summit register.
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Megan belaying pitch 1
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Cobble with a big edge on pitch 1; Megan...
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BETA PHOTO: Changing the Stripes from the road
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Changing the Stripes, pitch 1
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Changing the Stripes, pitch 1
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Changing the Stripes, descending
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Maple Canyon
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Inside the summit register
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Megan rappelling from the summit
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| Comments on Changing the Stripes |
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By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.6
| As you drive up the canyon on the right you'll see a huge wall and at the top of the wall you'll see a formation in the shape of a heart. This is heart rock. Directly left of it is a wall that holds this climb. I'll take a pic next time I'm up there. There is a pullout to the right, some old campfire. We cairned the trail up to it. |
By tenesmus
May 16, 2011
| wait. I thought it was shaped like a heart? |
By Alex Abramov
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 11, 2011
rating: 5.4
| Super easy, super safe. This is a good route for very beginners and gym climbers. 5.4 (at a stretch, definitely 5.1 in terms of Yosemite or Tahquitz) |
By CHopwood
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.5
| The approach is far harder than anything on the climb, otherwise this route would get more stars. Make no mistake, you will be tree-to-treeing up the slope to the climb so plan accordingly. Alex Abramov's photo in the beta section is taken from the pullout under the heart shaped rock. Enter the dry creek-bed in the back of the pullout and walk upstream a few hundred feet. There is a cairn on the right bank. Turn and scramble up the "trail" up to the base of the climb. Rap twice with a 70m rope, otherwise rap thrice. |
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