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Changing the Stripes Buttress
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Changing the Stripes 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Jason Stevens & Virgil Ash
New Route: Yes
Season: All Seasons, Best in Spring & Fall
Page Views: 1,802
Submitted By: Jason Stevens on May 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Virgil Ash on the third pitch.
This area is located on private property.

Description 

P1:om the starting platform, climb up and into a
crack system. Stay left of the crack/coner (5.5) and
top out on the bulge at the first anchor station (50’).

P2: Climb a long angle, faint arete to a couple of
vertical steps. A short patina face leads to a couple
more steps and the next anchor station (5.5).

P3: Continue up the arete, clip a long sling on the
last bolt and top out on a platform. Move right
to the left leaning ramp/arete a follow it up and
through the slot to the summit. (5.4).


Location 

Park at or near Anti-Gravity Rock (two
turns in the road below Box Canyon). Cross the creek
and stay left of a huge boulder and bush-whack
north up the draw. The vegetation is thick and there
is no trail as of 4.18.09. When you near some large
boulders on your right, move right and skirt the base
of the cliff. When “Heart Rock” comes into view above
you, climb a shallow gully on your left to a platform
roughly 30’ above the trees.


Protection 

Bolts. Take long slings for the belay stations. A couple of long slings are helpful to reduce rope drag at the top of the pillar on P3.

You can do the entire route with one 60M rope. Sign the summit register!



Photos of Changing the Stripes Slideshow Add Photo
Virgil Ash approaching the second belay station.
Virgil Ash approaching the second belay station.
Megan rappelling from the summit
Megan rappelling from the summit
Virgil Ash signing the summit register.
Virgil Ash signing the summit register.
Maple Canyon
Maple Canyon
Megan belaying pitch 1
Megan belaying pitch 1
view from the top
view from the top
Cobble with a big edge on pitch 1; Megan climbing
Cobble with a big edge on pitch 1; Megan...
Changing the Stripes, descending
Changing the Stripes, descending
Changing the Stripes from the road
BETA PHOTO: Changing the Stripes from the road
Inside the summit register
Inside the summit register
Changing the Stripes, pitch 1
Changing the Stripes, pitch 1
leading the final pitch
leading the final pitch
Changing the Stripes, pitch 1
Changing the Stripes, pitch 1
Kev topping out
Kev topping out
Comments on Changing the Stripes Add Comment
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By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

As you drive up the canyon on the right you'll see a huge wall and at the top of the wall you'll see a formation in the shape of a heart. This is heart rock. Directly left of it is a wall that holds this climb. I'll take a pic next time I'm up there. There is a pullout to the right, some old campfire. We cairned the trail up to it.

By tenesmus
May 16, 2011

wait. I thought it was shaped like a heart?

By Alex Abramov
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 11, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Super easy, super safe. This is a good route for very beginners and gym climbers. 5.4 (at a stretch, definitely 5.1 in terms of Yosemite or Tahquitz)

By CHopwood
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The approach is far harder than anything on the climb, otherwise this route would get more stars. Make no mistake, you will be tree-to-treeing up the slope to the climb so plan accordingly. Alex Abramov's photo in the beta section is taken from the pullout under the heart shaped rock. Enter the dry creek-bed in the back of the pullout and walk upstream a few hundred feet. There is a cairn on the right bank. Turn and scramble up the "trail" up to the base of the climb. Rap twice with a 70m rope, otherwise rap thrice.

By Jeff Hofheins 1
From: Logan, Utah
Jul 6, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The approach still doesn't really have any sort of trail. Lots of bushwacking!