Changes 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Bob Gaines & Tony Sartin 12/03 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Bob Gaines on Feb 27, 2005 |
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A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>
The route Energy Crisis and the rock for 50' on either side of its are closed to climbing to protect Native American rock art in the vicinity.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Begin from a gully about 50 ft. up and left from Blues Traveller (5.10d) and climb a low angle slab past 1 bolt (5.5) to a steep headwall (3 bolts, 11+) then easier (.9) steep face up and left past 5 more bolts to the top of the formation. 2 bolt rap. 100 ft.
Protection 9 bolts. 2 bolt rap anchor 100 ft.
A #1 camalot is useful before the 2nd bolt.
By Randy
Feb 28, 2005
rating: 5.11c
| Distinct crux, sustained climbing from 2nd bolt to last. 3 of 5 stars. The only "change" I'd suggest to this climb would be to lower the top anchor by 20 feet or so (or maybe just double the last bolt and leave top anchor). This would permit a lower off rather than rapping (100+ foot rap) as there is currently too much drag on the rope to effectively lower or run a TR from the ground. |
By Murf
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.11c
| Well bolted crux leads to easier, fun, Josh style friction. Didn't place the optional cam. |
By Choncho
Nov 3, 2011
| Good route. Worthwhile. Didn't clip the last 5 bolts. |
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