Change Up 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Larry DeAngelo on Apr 6, 2006 |
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Traversing under the roof on pitch 2 of Change Up ...
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Description Start just to the left of the curving arch of Arch Enemy and climb the slab to a right-facing corner. Excellent climbing on good rock leads to a belay ledge about 160 feet up. Pitch 2 continues up the corner to a roof, where the rock quality declines abruptly. Traverse right under the roof on loose rock with shaky pro. Finish via the tunnel at the top of the arch. A more civilized option for the second pitch would be to traverse right on varnished ledges to the belay/rap station on Arch Enemy.
Protection Standard rack
Starting up pitch one of Change Up.
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Nearing the belay ledge at the top of pitch one of...
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Finishing up via the tunnel of pitch two of Change...
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Low on pitch 1 of Change Up
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Excellent varnished corner on Change Up.
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Larry DeAngelo leading the scary, chossy pitch two...
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Larry in his old school ways finding creative gear...
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Larry is intrigued by something he sees up there, ...
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By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Apr 6, 2006
rating: 5.9
| P-1 is a blast!
I would have given this climb 3 stars if it weren't for the loose rock on the traverse under the roof of P-2.
I pulled off a frisbee sized chunk of crumbly rock when following Larry on this pitch. Nice lead Scary Larry! I would have peed my pants, if I was leading it.
Climbing/finishing up through the tunnel of P-2 was awesome! |
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 7, 2006
| This route had so much promise; pitch one was great but I backed off of this route at the crux. Bad pro and chossy rock here, unfortunately. John |
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