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 ADVANCED
Drifter/Smoking Boulder
Select Route:
Change of Heart 
Croft Problem, The 
High Plains Drifter 
Knobs, The 

Change of Heart 

Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 35'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Dale Bard
Page Views: 1,384
Submitted By: Gaar on Feb 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Reid on Change of Heart

Description 

Some say it is harder the HPD some say it is easier. I think it is easier.

Same start as HPD but go straight up. Long lock-off to good crimp, followed by pinches and a blind push to a decent sloper.

Protection 

pad


Photos of Change of Heart Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up CoH.
Starting up CoH.

Comments on Change of Heart Add Comment
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By Tommy Klinefelter
Mar 4, 2009

Even though High Plains Drifter gets the most attention, I believe this problem the better line. It's direct, therefor less contrived, and has moves that are classic Buttermilk. Reachy and very dependent on conditions.
By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Mar 4, 2009

FA: another Dale Bard old school classic.
By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Nov 30, 2009
rating: V6 7A

THE standard for V6. Sherman thought Change of Heart was High Plains Drifter in his Hueco Guide book that established the V-scale.
By Andy Liu
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 23, 2010

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Apr 5, 2013
rating: V6 7A

tcam is correct - the old Bishop guidebook even had this one mixed up with High Plains Drifter hence the confusion. High Plains has always been the standard for V7 in the area and Change of Heart V6.