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Champ's Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Roy Crawfore, Grey Amburgey - late 70s
Page Views: 851
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Oct 26, 2009
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  • Description 

    A really fun climb -- at least until you have to top out.

    Follow the corner system up to a stance below the roof. Suss out the holds, get in some good protection, and then pull around the right side of the roof. Continue to follow the crack system up to the clean face above. Good holds lead to the top. This is where the fun ends.

    You are presented with three options for topping out:

    Door #1: Continue straight up, over featureless white slab to a carpet of moss and then a completely impassable rhododendron thicket. If you are a) related to a weasel, or b) climb with a machete, then this may be the choice for you.

    Door #2: Traverse around left to a corner/ramp system that looks like it might lead to the top. Rope drag may be problematic. This path was also running with water when I got there, so I chose...

    Door #3: Traverse right about 10 feet, and then claw your way up a steep chute of moss, loose dirt and dead vegetation for about 20 feet or so until you reach a sturdy pine tree for a belay.

    Descent- scramble/bushwhack your way to the summit and walk off.


    Location 

    Starts from the right end of the Lightning Ledge. From the P3 anchors at the top of Cave Route, a crack/corner system leads up past a roof to the summit.


    Protection 

    standard rack, belay from trees at top



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    By Jason Schmidt
    From: Ghent, MN
    Nov 29, 2009

    Thanks for adding, it is really pretty fun. Except the top, climbed it this fall, I to decided to head right, might have made it look like the way to go by clearing vegetation. Upon reflection and looking at a guide book, the route is meant to head left after the roof, so as fun as the jugs going straight up are, trend left. Done correctly it might be fun the whole time.

    By Jeff Jenkins
    Oct 15, 2012

    I did this a couple yrs ago , I think it should be cleaned off a little and would be a great summit route. I had no choice but to take Door #1 as everything else was running water. Mantleing up on moss into the Rodo thicket was insane, I used a rodo leaf as a "hold" and crawled on my belly through the 30' thicket. Best onsight of my life!