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Chamonix Valley & Aiguilles Rouges 


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Administrators: Euan Cameron, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: HTP on Jun 24, 2009

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Looking up the valley from high up on the South si...

Description 

The Mont Blanc range gets all the press, but the Chamonix Valley has outstanding cragging: good rock, no access problems, and views of the haute montagne.

Above the valley floor, the Aiguilles Rouges--opposite the Mont Blanc range--offer climbs with a more alpine-y feel that are easy to reach thanks to a web of trails and cable cars.

Essential guide books:
-Crag Climbs in Chamonix, by François Burnier and Dominique Potard. It's available in several languages, including English, at Chamonix's Maison de la Presse bookstore, across from Snell Sports (the place to go if you need gear!). This book includes everything in the valley plus some, but not all, climbs in the Aiguilles Rouges.

-There are a couple of guidebooks for the Aiguilles Rouges, but they're all in French. The newest has excellent pictures--I'll post more about it soon!


Getting There 

This section covers crags in the entire valley; depending on the time of year, most are easy to access via public transportation.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chamonix Valley & Aiguilles Rouges:
Voie Jaune (Yellow Route)   5.4     Sport, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   Les Chèserys
Voie Bleu (Blue Route)   5.8     Sport, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   Les Chèserys
Crocs mignons et vieilles dentelles   5.8+     Sport, 5 pitches, 330 feet   Vallorcine
Lepidopteres    5.8+     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   Chamonix Aiguille : Aiguille du Peigne
Voie Contamine, West Face of Gendarme Rouge(Red)   5.10a     Trad, Alpine, 17 pitches, 1900 feet, Grade IV   Chamonix Aiguille : Aiguille du Peigne
Voie Rébuffat-Baquet   5.10a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II   Chamonix Aiguille : Aiguille de Midi
Voie Frison-Roche   5.10     Sport, 6 pitches, 650 feet   Le Brévent
Browse More Classics in Chamonix Valley & Aiguilles Rouges

Featured Route For Chamonix Valley & Aiguilles Rouges
View from the approach hike. Last bit of the approach shown in green, route in red.

Lepidopteres 5.8+  International : France : ... : Aiguille du Peigne
P1: Short pitch of easy slabs, a few bolts, 5-easyP2: More slab with intermittent cracks, 5.7P3: Cracks and corners, 5.8P4: More cracks and corners, 5.8+P5: Cracks and flakes till you gain the ridge, 5.7...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Chamonix Valley & Aiguilles Rouges Slideshow Add Photo
hiking in Chamonix

hiking in Chamonix

The Aiguille de Dru. Above the town of Chamonix. The prominent central buttress is the Bonatti pillar.

The Aiguille de Dru. Above the town of Chamonix. T...

Historic photo.. P.Ross on day two on the first British ascent of the Bonatti Pillar Aguille Dru 1958.

Historic photo.. P.Ross on day two on the first Br...

Historic photo! Ross and McInnes 1958. First British ascent Bonatti Pillar . Aiguille du Dru. 3rd day.McInnes with broken head due to rock fall.Photo Chris Bonington.

Historic photo! Ross and McInnes 1958. First Briti...

In the Valle Blanc heading towards the Aiguille du Geant.The South Face route takes the overhanging side of the Geant 1959.. Photo Eric Rayson

In the Valle Blanc heading towards the Aiguille du...

P.Ross Vallee Blanc 1959. Mt Blanc in the background

P.Ross Vallee Blanc 1959. Mt Blanc in the backgrou...

Paul Ross on the summit of the Aiguille du Geant.1959, via the South Face. The Grandes Jorasses in the background.Photo Eric Rayson

Paul Ross on the summit of the Aiguille du Geant.1...

P.Ross. South Face Aiguille du Midi.1960

P.Ross. South Face Aiguille du Midi.1960

The Mer de Glace glacier above Chamonix with the Grandes Jorasses at the head of the photo.

The Mer de Glace glacier above Chamonix with the G...

Historic photo ! . Chamonix camp site 1959.L to R. Eric Rayson,Paul Ross,Geoff Oliver.  Photo Eric Rayson

Historic photo ! . Chamonix camp site 1959.L to R....

The spectacular Grand Capucin. A perfect 1500' granite face in the Vallee Blanc. In 1959 Bill Aughton and I climbed the Bonatti route with one very pleasant Bivouac. There are now other climbs on the face ,some are among the hardest free climbs in the Chamonix area.

The spectacular Grand Capucin. A perfect 1500' gra...

Another photo of the superb granite of the Grand Capucin..

Another photo of the superb granite of the Grand C...

Historic photo.1958 Hamish McInnes , Walter Philip ,Ricardo Blanc ,preparing for an ascent of the Bonatti Pillar ,Aiguille du Dru

Historic photo.1958 Hamish McInnes , Walter Philip...

Paul Ross on the South Face of the Aiguille Du Geant.. 1959.Photo Eric Rayson

Paul Ross on the South Face of the Aiguille Du Gea...

Climbers on the upper section of the Bonatti Pillar.The original route went up the shadow overhang to the right of the climbers.

Climbers on the upper section of the Bonatti Pilla...

Descending in a storm down from the Aiguille du Moine.photo P.Ross

Descending in a storm down from the Aiguille du Mo...

On the upper part of the Mer de Glace. .Photo P.Ross

On the upper part of the Mer de Glace. .Photo P.Ro...

Valle Blanche

Valle Blanche

L' Aiguille Du Midi

L' Aiguille Du Midi

Grandes Jorasses. Old slides from the eighties... sorry.

Grandes Jorasses. Old slides from the eighties... ...

John Harlin in the Argentiere basin.

John Harlin in the Argentiere basin.

View of the Mont Blanc Massif from Aiguille des Crochues in the Aiguilles Rouges.  Major peaks are labeled.

BETA PHOTO: View of the Mont Blanc Massif from Aiguille des Cr...


Comments on Chamonix Valley & Aiguilles Rouges Add Comment
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By Larry Bruce
Apr 17, 2010

Thanks Paul Ross for the wonderful pics, brings back some good memories.

By Seleucus
From: Geneva, Switzerland
Jul 6, 2012

Just wanted to mention that they have released Michael Piola's Les Aiguilles Rouges Volume 1 guidebook in an English translation. It's a fantastic book with lots of routes and great beta. It can be a bit tough to find in stores sometimes though.