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Chambered Nautilus 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan 1995
Page Views: 6,908
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (208)
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workin the flake... this is where I got stumped on...

Description 

This climb is just right of the obvious "Coral Bells Arete". It climbs the north overhanging face. The roofs will tax you, but it is not as hard as it looks. My **** rating may be influenced by the fact that this was my 1st 5.10 and an onsight.

Protection 

2 chains for the top. 7 draws for the climb. 1st bolt is kind of high and awkward. 1 runner.


Photos of Chambered Nautilus Slideshow Add Photo
Fun Climb
Fun Climb
Looking up from the bottom
Looking up from the bottom
At the finish.
At the finish.
Notice the nice 4 finger jam under the roof... key
Notice the nice 4 finger jam under the roof... key
Photo from the bottom Shows Proximity to Coral Bells
BETA PHOTO: Photo from the bottom Shows Proximity to Coral Bel...
1)  Coral Bells Arete  2)  Chambered Nautilus  3)  Birth Simulator
BETA PHOTO: 1) Coral Bells Arete 2) Chambered Nautilus 3) ...
Climbing Chambered Nautilus
Climbing Chambered Nautilus
Oh yeah
Oh yeah
Resting after leading
Resting after leading

Comments on Chambered Nautilus Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 18, 2014
By drock3
Aug 29, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
This is a super popular route and the rap rings are starting to show it. Looks like folks have been TRing off the rings, and one of them has two significant wear marks. It's currently attached by a larger quick link that too tight to open by hand.

If you're comfortable with this sort of thing, next time you head out there bring a wrench and pull the worn ring off. You don't even need to replace it, the quick link by its self will be fine.
By Lee Gitlin
Jun 3, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Seven bolts long, this fantastic route has a little of everything. A bouldery beginning, some balance moves, laybacking off flakes, and a burly roof pull below the anchors. One hint: find the well-chalked undercling to unlock the roof sequence.
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 4, 2004

Bring a runner for bolt 5.
By Leroy Fielding
Jun 14, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pretty fun route. I don't think the last bolt is necessary, it is an awkward/unnecessary clip, but nonetheless a fun route.
By Awatubi
Jun 21, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The last bolt is awkward...if you look a few feet down and right from it you will see a bolt that has been chopped/sheared. This may have been the original (and much more logical) clip.
By Jared Hargrave
From: Salt Lake City, UT.
Jun 26, 2007

Rather than use a runner on bolt 5, I simply unclipped it after clipping bolt 6 to avoid rope drag. The quickdraw was easy to reach with my left hand after clipping into bolt 6. Also felt that the roof was easier than the roof on Coral Bells Arete. Crazy?
By john richards
From: salt lake city UT
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For a steady 5.10 climber this climb will seem pretty easy.
By McRae Williams
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good sustained climbing. Definitely takes a little thinking out here and there. A good first 5.10 for sure. quality route.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 27, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun climb. Akward moves getting to the 3rd bolt (this is my crux if not THE crux). Well it was akward when 5.10a/b was my limit...

+1 on not clipping the last bolt, forget the bolt and concentrate on finishing the roof!
By Rachelle J. Ross
Jul 7, 2009

Great route! Some nice stemmy movements down below with great high steps. Balancy moves with side pulls that could go all the wrong ways without the right pivots. Lee Gitlin gave a nice bit of beta on this with that undercling being the key to unlock the roof, allowing the feet to get up high so you can clear it. The only downside to this route is it seems too short once you clear the roof. I wanted MORE!
By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Aug 17, 2009

Great climb, pulling the upper roof is definitely the crux. Go big, you're well protected!
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 27, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Big moves to big jugs and some sweet roofs. Sport wankin' in BCC couldn't get any better.
By Andrewprime1
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I climbed this a few weeks ago on my first day of outdoor lead climbing. It was an awesome route and I would really recommend it. Getting past the roof is def the scariest part, but it is actually pretty easy if you find the undercling and get your feet nice an high.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Sep 1, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a really well protected route. The first bolt is very high though, and the start is bouldery. A stick clip would be a good idea. Folks are right about the 3rd to last bolt needing to either be unclipped or use a long runner. There is also a really good rest, right before the roof. You could have a sandwich before heading over the roof...
By jimmy6
Apr 20, 2012

Does the route just right of Chambered Nautilus, the crack in corner have a name and rating?
By grk10vq
Administrator
Apr 20, 2012

birth simulator .6
By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Jun 1, 2012

Missing some red/white/black scarpa feroce shoes size 10. Last seen beneath chambered nautilus/coral bells arete...reward will be beer (or slurpee if you're LDS). shoot me an email please...
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great fun climb! Sidepulls make you think about your body movement, as they all seem to angle off in the wrong directions. Fun pulling the roof!
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun climb with a bit of everything as mentioned. Boulder-y start, thin flake, and a small roof. Beta has been given, nothing more to really add. Definitely worth doing, a great first lead for the aspiring 10a leader.