Chambered Nautilus 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan 1995 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003 |
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At the finish.
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Description This climb is just right of the obvious "Coral Bells Arete". It climbs the north overhanging face. The roofs will tax you, but it is not as hard as it looks. My **** rating may be influenced by the fact that this was my 1st 5.10 and an onsight.
Protection 2 chains for the top. 7 draws for the climb. 1st bolt is kind of high and awkward. 1 runner.
BETA PHOTO: 1) Coral Bells Arete 2) Chambered Nautilus 3) ...
| Notice the nice 4 finger jam under the roof... key
| workin the flake... this is where I got stumped on...
| Fun Climb
| Looking up from the bottom
| Oh yeah
| Climbing Chambered Nautilus
| BETA PHOTO: Photo from the bottom Shows Proximity to Coral Bel...
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| Comments on Chambered Nautilus |
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By Lee Gitlin Jun 3, 2004 rating: 5.10a
| Seven bolts long, this fantastic route has a little of everything. A bouldery beginning, some balance moves, laybacking off flakes, and a burly roof pull below the anchors. One hint: find the well-chalked undercling to unlock the roof sequence. |
By Leroy Fielding Jun 14, 2004 rating: 5.10a
| Pretty fun route. I don't think the last bolt is necessary, it is an awkward/unnecessary clip, but nonetheless a fun route. |
By Awatubi Jun 21, 2004 rating: 5.10a
| The last bolt is awkward...if you look a few feet down and right from it you will see a bolt that has been chopped/sheared. This may have been the original (and much more logical) clip. |
By Jared Hargrave From: Salt Lake City, UT. Jun 26, 2007
| Rather than use a runner on bolt 5, I simply unclipped it after clipping bolt 6 to avoid rope drag. The quickdraw was easy to reach with my left hand after clipping into bolt 6. Also felt that the roof was easier than the roof on Coral Bells Arete. Crazy? |
By john richards From: salt lake city UT Apr 21, 2008 rating: 5.10a
| For a steady 5.10 climber this climb will seem pretty easy. |
By McRae Williams May 15, 2008 rating: 5.10a
| Good sustained climbing. Definitely takes a little thinking out here and there. A good first 5.10 for sure. quality route. |
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Jun 27, 2008 rating: 5.10a
| Fun climb. Akward moves getting to the 3rd bolt (this is my crux if not THE crux). Well it was akward when 5.10a/b was my limit... +1 on not clipping the last bolt, forget the bolt and concentrate on finishing the roof! |
By Rachelle J. Ross Jul 7, 2009
| Great route! Some nice stemmy movements down below with great high steps. Balancy moves with side pulls that could go all the wrong ways without the right pivots. Lee Gitlin gave a nice bit of beta on this with that undercling being the key to unlock the roof, allowing the feet to get up high so you can clear it. The only downside to this route is it seems too short once you clear the roof. I wanted MORE! |
By Finn the Human From: The Land of Ooo Aug 17, 2009
| Great climb, pulling the upper roof is definitely the crux. Go big, you're well protected! |
By Michael Buchanan Apr 27, 2010 rating: 5.10-
| Big moves to big jugs and some sweet roofs. Sport wankin' in BCC couldn't get any better. |
By Andrewprime1 From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 6, 2011 rating: 5.10-
| I climbed this a few weeks ago on my first day of outdoor lead climbing. It was an awesome route and I would really recommend it. Getting past the roof is def the scariest part, but it is actually pretty easy if you find the undercling and get your feet nice an high. |
By jeffozozo From: huntsville, utah Sep 1, 2011 rating: 5.10a
| This is a really well protected route. The first bolt is very high though, and the start is bouldery. A stick clip would be a good idea. Folks are right about the 3rd to last bolt needing to either be unclipped or use a long runner. There is also a really good rest, right before the roof. You could have a sandwich before heading over the roof... |
By jimmy6 Apr 20, 2012
| Does the route just right of Chambered Nautilus, the crack in corner have a name and rating? |
By Eric Chabot From: Thetford Ctr, VT Jun 1, 2012
| Missing some red/white/black scarpa feroce shoes size 10. Last seen beneath chambered nautilus/coral bells arete...reward will be beer (or slurpee if you're LDS). shoot me an email please... |
By Mark Lewis From: Salt Lake City, Utah Jul 18, 2012 rating: 5.10a
| Great fun climb! Sidepulls make you think about your body movement, as they all seem to angle off in the wrong directions. Fun pulling the roof! |
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