Challenges of Leisure 

Jim Redo's on the Web!

Cool I'm glad you found a sequence for the masses. Tell everyone you know who climbs 12a to go do it and let me know what they think A.C. I hope they like the route. On hindsight I only think it's 13a. But I wasn't smart enough to find the 12a way to do it.. Oh well.

This line looks so great, but I can't climb 13b. Not to worry, though, even though Jim put the route up at 13b (and what could Jim Redo possibly know about these things?), and it's gone from 12c, to 12b, to 12a in the peanut gallery. I had hope there for a few weeks that I'd be able to get on this route once it hit the low 11 range....

Alas, my hopes were dashed when Jim corrected the situation. I'm still hoping though! Maybe someone should rename this route "The Dow of Difficulty".

kreighton, (levity, just for levity)

Great route, at least what parts I could climb... Does anyone have some beta for the crux section (directly above the bolt with the bail-rings on it)? I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

Match on obvious crimp, high-step right foot to pebble or small edge above pebble, rock onto right foot and reach up and slightly right to stick small crimp with your right hand (crux) -- left foot to starting crimp, left hand to jug (horizontal crack).

Without question a one-move wonder. Excluding the crux, good low-5.12 climbing.

I agree with everyone's comments, a one move wonder, but the rest of the route is stellar, four star, 5.12 climbing! The crux is hard enough to set the grade at solid 13a but no harder, in my opinion, and since all the clips and moves are super safe, this is a perfect project for your first 5.13 - it was mine!!

Travis, I'm wondering if you have been working the route recently? I had prehung draws on the route, because I was about to send, and for some reason or another, someone stole (or accidentally took) one of my draws off the bolt hanger with the ring right at the crux. It was a Petzl Spirit draw. I'm guessing that some gumbie swung over from the anchors of the 10a on the right and that was the only draw they could reach to take. Anyway, stealing draws is uncool. I am not sure why someone would take a single draw off the route. If you're strong enough to climb this route, then I'm sure you have enough respect to leave the draws in place. This is not an error on my part either, I counted several times thinking I was crazy, my rack is one short including a Petzl Spirit draw which I had exactly 4 of, now I only have 3. Anyway, if anyone knows anything about this, please let me know for a cash reward. I'll pay 50 bucks to beat the person's ass who stole my draw. Actually, make it a hundo. If it was an accident, my bad. I would just appreciate the draw back. If anyone is feeling guilty after reading this, they can drop it off at the Boulder Rock Club front desk and tell them it's for Curt. Thank You

Hey Curt! I sent the route on the day of Halloween, and all the draws were in place (thanks by the way!) So the mysterious occurrence happened in between October 31st and November 4th. There wasn't a draw at the very top bolt before the anchor, but that climbing is easier and I guessed that you just didn't feel you needed one?
Travis

I really want to give this route 3 or 4 stars, but the crux is just too unpleasant to do so. The rest of the climb features super fun 5.11 climbing down low and pleasant 5.10 climbing up high with maybe a bit of 5.12 here and there. Moreover the route has interesting technical sequences on great stone. In fact, I think that if you are reasonably tall that even the crux move is probably pretty fun. When I use the lower foot that Dan Levinson mentions, I can pretty easily back into and out of the crux sequence body position needed to grab the upper right hand crimp; unfortunately, when I use this lower foot I come up about 3 inches short of the crux right hand crimp. Thus I need to use the higher foot edge, which because of its increased height, makes the move quite a bit more strenuous and unpleasant (I really need to crank hard on the sharp left hand crimp...ouch). In short, I think this is probably a great 3-4 star route if you have a good ape index or are tall, but the route probably becomes unpleasant and pretty damn hard if you are shorter. Thus because I am not tall or short, I split the difference and called it 2 stars and 13b (though probably not on the "solid" end of 'b' for me).