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BETA PHOTO: Challenger is the right facing corner system in th...
Challenger may be the first route to be established on this wall but I'm not sure. Rope up below the most central crack system on the cliff and it also has a prominent little porch of rock to lay your rack out on. You can also add two more pitches (5.8 and 5.10d) to the four described here.
Pitch 1) -5.10d: Start climbing up moderate terrain directly below the roof that marks the crux of the first pitch. Get below the roof and do some cool opposition moves to gain your position below the roof. Undercling and stem out the right side and keep your eyes peeled for a key foothold out right. Move up easier ground to a two bolt anchor with a small stance.
Pitch 2) -5.10d: climb up a nice crack and layback until it is possible to traverse right towards a little corner/alcove below the main right facing corner that marks the meat of this fine pitch. Climb up the corner using small stoppers for pro, and fingertip laybacks for skills. This eventually eases off and turns into nice hand pods and secure flared locks for about 50 ft. End at a semi hanger with two new studs. Really rad pitch.
Pitch 3) 5.10b: This pitch starts off sorta shitty but I guess is worth while. Do a big reach out right off the anchor and start your grovel through some vegetation for about twenty feet to gain a weird flaring groove. Climb this and gain better ground eventually perching up below a decent sized roof. Do some trickery and bust out the left side of this roof. Then do some more balancy stuff to gain a nice ledge with two bolts for the anchor.
Pitch 4) 5.10b: This pitch can be done one of two three ways. The original line goes up the thin right facing corner off the belay and goes up and right toward a short left facing corner. You can also hand traverse out a thin rail, no feet (5.11) right off the belay and gain the 4th pitch of Jupiter II.
We however downclimbed out right off the belay and traversed until it is possible to grab a cool undercling and crank off a few locks and holds to gain the 4th pitch of Jupiter II as well. Anyway you go it's a decent pitch of climbing with more good rock. Climb up the face with cool holds and semi hollow flakes. Offset Aliens would be nice for this pitch but can totally be done without as well.
The climbing is pretty moderate and never desperate. Make your way up toward the little left facing corner and eventually climb up the arete of this to gain another two bolt anchor with suspect tat. Watch out for the two huge loose death blocks on the left side of the corner. These would be a huge threat to the belayer if dislodged!!
Do four single rope raps to get back to your pack.
A single rack up to 2" Camalot, but doubles on .5 through 1" is sorta nice. Offset Aliens could defintely be useful and HB Offsets are nice as well. A nice selection of stoppper and rp's, draws and slings as well. One 60 meter gets you up and down. ( New webbing and biners would be nice for the new bolts at the anchors.)
Collin negotiating the tips corner on pitch two.
Challenger's 4th Pitch (thin, right facing corner ...
Ryan Strong in the crux of the first pitch of Chal...
BETA PHOTO: Rachel Greenberg rising to the Challenge on pitch ...
BETA PHOTO: Rachel enjoying the balancing moves on pitch 4. W...
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
Sep 9, 2008
Warning! The roof on pitch 1 is a rope eater! I'm talking mid lead....placing a green Alien in the Choke spot might work. Or be sure to throw the rope around to the right after pullling the roof....then be very careful if you place gear after that....
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 10, 2008
rating: 5.10d PG13
definitely bring webbing for the upper anchor if you do this route- and, while we were pretty sure a 60m rope would work for the descent, some of the raps would be rope stretchers- a 70m makes it easily.
great route- dont forget the rp's!
|By Scotty Nelson|
Nov 20, 2008
Our rope got stuck on the 2nd to last rappel. Suggest pulling the rope to the left on this rappel.
Would be nice if someone puts some rap rings on the nice new belay bolts.
|By Karsten Delap|
From: North Carolina
Apr 1, 2009
rating: 5.11- PG13
In my opinion the tips crack was desperate. Use a 70m rope and rap rings would be nice.
|By max hasson|
Dec 1, 2009
Rope got stuck leading the first pitch, after pulling the lip care must be taken (as said) to keep the rope to climber's left of the crack, in the direction of the anchor. Second pitch crux was avoided by climbing arete to the left, still challenging but appeared easier than the (splitter) tips crack. Climbed straight up and traversed above vegetation on third pitch, rock's a little friable but fun moves and no gardening. Did the original fourth pitch option and found one hard move, maybe hardest of the route. Rope got stuck a second time after pulling the rope on the second to last rappel (also noted here). I had to run back up the second pitch (pretty fun), luckily the rope pulled the second time.
Excellent route, cool amphitheater, beautiful hike, makes me want to go back and get on X-15, Jupiter II and Adventure Punks.
|By Rob DeZonia|
Sep 4, 2011
This route is awesome! We used long runners on the gear under roof and didn't have any issues with the rope getting stuck. Definitely recomend finishing with the last two pitches of Jupiter. The super steep hand crack at the top is great and easier than it looks.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 1, 2011
rating: 5.10d PG13
This is a superb route. Both the crux pitches felt solid for the grade and the tips crack was very radical and technical but with good locks when you need them. The last two pitches however felt slightly sandbagged and a word of caution to those of you who go up there without a full set of RP's (me)... don't forget the RP's! I would say overall the whole route clocks in at 5.10+ with the upper pitches being headier and harder than the guidebook would advertise. Excellent route, great stone, great approach!
|By John Roark|
Feb 19, 2012
another sucker getting the rope stuck...
The only warning I have is on the last rap down challenger we got our rope stuck 3 times on the thin crack near the top of the second pitch on Challenger benighting us. I swung to the right and placed 2 nuts as directionals for the pull to prevent the rope from running in the crack. After that the rope got stuck just slightly and we were able to pull hard enough to get it unstuck. The first time I unstuck our rope i was able to see the remnants of a rope in the same crack system that someone must have cut to get down.
To be honest I'm not sure if it would be better just rapping Jupiter2 with a 70m and down climbing the last 20' or so. The anchors on Jupiter2 currently do have gear to rap off. Use your judgement. Good luck.
|By Rob Fielding|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 10, 2012
rating: 5.10d R
These routes on challenger wall were put up by the local hardmen in the 80's looking to make a statement. Bold/stout routes. Ground up w/ strict ethics and minimal bolts.
1st and 2nd pitches are well protected, but hard.
3rd and 4th pitches are head ups, and harder than the grades suggest. I thought the orginal line on the 4th pitch was the hardest and the 3rd pitch roof pull the most heads up pitch for the day. If you blow the roof, you'll probably bust your ankles...
For a rack i'd suggest an emphasis on doubles in the smaller gear w/ your second set being tcu's or c3's. Rp's are a must.
70m rope works perfect, might want some extra webbing to change out the raps, we didn't have any trouble pulling the rope on the last two pitches, we pulled them towards the left.
|By Darren in Vegas|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 10, 2012
Removed tattered webbing from the first two anchors and left quicklinks and biners on the bolted stations. Please leave the biners as they are there to facilitate easier rappelling, not for bootying. Better yet, replace the biners with more quicklinks and rap rings.
Apr 15, 2013
Climbed this route a couple days ago. This route follows an impressive corner system with delicate climbing at the 5.10 level. There is definitely some technical climbing above gear.
Pitch 1: Climb up broken slabs to the under cling roof. (0.4-0.5 BD cams) protects the roof move. 100ft
Pitch 2: Climb up into the thin right facing corner above the anchor. Crux is about 30ft above belay. Small gear and RP's protect this section. The crack easiest up to the anchor about 110ft. Awesome pitch.
Pitch 3: Traverse right 5ft off the belay to the next crack system. Follow up V groove with gear partially spaced to the roof. The crux is pulling the roof out left which you can get a .5 and .75 just before the roof. Just after the roof you can just a small cam or RP. Another 15ft of climbing to the anchor. 90ft pitch. I thought this was the hardness pitch and a bit bold.
Pitch 4: Technical stemming and balancing moves off the anchor for the first 30ft. Traverse right to easier terrain to the anchor. 70ft.
Can rap the route with a single 70m rope.
Doubles in small gear is very helpful. Enjoy The Challenge.