Chalk Up Another One 

Did this climb very recently, came flying off it at the crux. Warning: Don't flash a .10c then jump on this climb! It'll humble you. Quite unnerving at the crux but still a very good climb with good positions and moves.

Beautiful small/meduim Hex placement next to the last bolt, but why place it?

The crux may be technically 5.9 but the slippery nature makes it feel like a 5.10.

Climbing casually on a nice greasy day I managed to fall off this one as well :) Definitely polished.

Me too! (and here I thought I was the only one...). I remember the crux being right around the 3rd bolt.

This route has always been 5.10a; and, yes, the moves up and left from the 3rd bolt require some finesse or you could easily fall.

Felt pretty .10a to me, if I could only trust that left smear...

Fall, singular? I always figured I learn quick, but it took me 4 or 5 tries at the crux. Something like smear left, crimp crystals and slide. I appologize for leaving a bit more rubber on the rock.

Great climb on a warm day, as both the base (I think) and climb are in the shade 'til early afternoon (I won't mention the temps at the top, though). Easy scramble to the south from the top.

I just climbed it the other day. The Vogel guide listed it as a 10a, which I'd confirm. I onsighted it fine. Great route. Easy descent.

I lead this one on 1.22.05. I would agree with the 5.10a rating. The crux is moving off of the 3rd bolt. There is a good yellow alien placement on the first horizontal with good chicken heads to stand on while placing. Just bring draws, a few cams to 3", plus the yellow alien and you will be fine. I brought too much gear an fell once at the crux.

I led this route again today after about a twenty year hiatus. I'd forgotten what a great climb it is. Lots of fun.

Shut me down--after onsighting Bearded Cabbage, Hobbit Roof, and other tens that day... Its slippery!

One of my early leads for the grade at J-Tree, as it was (is) well protected, and in the morning shade. Nice route, fun moves. Three stars out of five.

Definately 10a. Delicate moves on decent rock.

I think the horizontal below the last bolt takes a variety of gear. I placed a #2 linkcam in its largest configuration, I believe. My buddy thought it was small cams for the anchor but all I managed was a crappy red alien and a good #1 link (placed in the same range as a red camalot). I'd suggest bringing along a yellow camalot as well.

The climbing itself was good although I got bouted several times by the slightly greasy and thin crux before succeeding.

Should be on everyones "short list" of climbs in JTree. My favorite face climb in the Park. Definitely 10a. Take a couple of smaller (#1 & #2) Camalots for the exit at the top.