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The Wall - Right Side
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Chalk Up Another One T 
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Chalk Up Another One 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jan McCollum, Hank Levine and Dave Houser, January 1978
Page Views: 2,352
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Zeke works up Chalk Up Another One on a cherry Dec...

Description 

Located on the right side of The Wall about 25' right of an obvious chimney system that splits the formation.

Steep slab climbing on polished, slippery smears (this is a popular route) past five bolts lead into a flared groove/crack. Gear belay and descend along the right margin of the wall. A little chimneying/tunneling and some downclimbing will land you back at your pack in a matter of minutes.

Protection 

5 bolts (3/8") and pro to 3" for anchors


Photos of Chalk Up Another One Slideshow Add Photo
At the crux. Photo: Eric Draper
At the crux. Photo: Eric Draper
"Chalk Up Another One" area. Photo by Bl...
"Chalk Up Another One" area. Photo by Bl...
The Wall (Right Side) with a climber on Chalk Up A...
BETA PHOTO: The Wall (Right Side) with a climber on Chalk Up A...
"Chalk Up Another One", 1980s. Photo by ...
"Chalk Up Another One", 1980s. Photo by ...

Comments on Chalk Up Another One Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 8, 2010
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 21, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Did this climb very recently, came flying off it at the crux. Warning: Don't flash a .10c then jump on this climb! It'll humble you. Quite unnerving at the crux but still a very good climb with good positions and moves.

Beautiful small/meduim Hex placement next to the last bolt, but why place it?

The crux may be technically 5.9 but the slippery nature makes it feel like a 5.10.
By Josh Beck
Jan 21, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbing casually on a nice greasy day I managed to fall off this one as well :) Definitely polished.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 21, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Me too! (and here I thought I was the only one...). I remember the crux being right around the 3rd bolt.
By Randy
Jan 22, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route has always been 5.10a; and, yes, the moves up and left from the 3rd bolt require some finesse or you could easily fall.
By Mark Whaling
Mar 6, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Felt pretty .10a to me, if I could only trust that left smear...
By Flying T
Mar 10, 2003

Fall, singular? I always figured I learn quick, but it took me 4 or 5 tries at the crux. Something like smear left, crimp crystals and slide. I appologize for leaving a bit more rubber on the rock.

Great climb on a warm day, as both the base (I think) and climb are in the shade 'til early afternoon (I won't mention the temps at the top, though). Easy scramble to the south from the top.
By Jamie S.
From: Gold River, CA
Apr 14, 2003

I just climbed it the other day. The Vogel guide listed it as a 10a, which I'd confirm. I onsighted it fine. Great route. Easy descent.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 22, 2005

I lead this one on 1.22.05. I would agree with the 5.10a rating. The crux is moving off of the 3rd bolt. There is a good yellow alien placement on the first horizontal with good chicken heads to stand on while placing. Just bring draws, a few cams to 3", plus the yellow alien and you will be fine. I brought too much gear an fell once at the crux.
By Woody Stark
Feb 5, 2005

I led this route again today after about a twenty year hiatus. I'd forgotten what a great climb it is. Lots of fun.
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Apr 24, 2006

Shut me down--after onsighting Bearded Cabbage, Hobbit Roof, and other tens that day... Its slippery!
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jul 8, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of my early leads for the grade at J-Tree, as it was (is) well protected, and in the morning shade. Nice route, fun moves. Three stars out of five.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 8, 2008

Definately 10a. Delicate moves on decent rock. I remember one day while I was hanging near the parking lot a Harrier strafed us only about like 500 feet above. It was super loud and scary. I was sure someone on a route would fall and I looked around and sure enough I saw a climber take a whipper off of Chalk Up Another One. I felt bad for him cause I knew I would probably have done the same thing if I was at the crux when it happened.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Dec 8, 2008

I think the horizontal below the last bolt takes a variety of gear. I placed a #2 linkcam in its largest configuration, I believe. My buddy thought it was small cams for the anchor but all I managed was a crappy red alien and a good #1 link (placed in the same range as a red camalot). I'd suggest bringing along a yellow camalot as well.

The climbing itself was good although I got bouted several times by the slightly greasy and thin crux before succeeding.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Should be on everyones "short list" of climbs in JTree. My favorite face climb in the Park. Definitely 10a. Take a couple of smaller (#1 & #2) Camalots for the exit at the top.