|Long Canyon North
Very delicate and then burly, the two pitches of this Copeland masterpiece represent opposing ends of the Wingate spectrum of excellence. The upper section of the slab and stemming corner requires balance based more on faith than feasibility and then the mood changes to overhanging fists reminiscent of the crux of the Yosemite classic Freestone. Above lies an ample dose of great thin hands and the anchor.
At the Deadman's Buttress on the north side of Long Canyon, a five minute walk to the right of Program Director. Chalk is Cheap is the only bolted route at the crag and the overhanging left-facing corner of the second pitch is very obvious. Descend via good bolted anchors.
Bring a single set of cams to red camalot and ten quickdraws for the mostly bolted fist pitch and many fist and thin hand sized pieces (with a couple cams of the sizes in between) for the big steep corner above.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
May 7, 2013
A good route but the first pitch seemed rather improbable, especially at 12-.
|By Matt Pesce|
From: moab, ut.
Apr 16, 2014
glad to hear someone else thinks so...maybe a hold broke ?? felt like 5.12 A0
2nd pitch is amazing !
|By Greg Cameron|
Apr 22, 2014
Great climb! Neither my partner or I could touch the 5.12 face, but it's easy enough to pull through. The lower, 5.10 part of this pitch is very interesting and fun. The second pitch is burly. I'd call it 5.10+ overhanging hand and fist to 5.11- thin hands.