Chairman Mao's Little Red Book
||Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||FA -unknown, FFA Jeff Thomas, Chris Jones, Alan Watts -July 21, 1979|
|Season: ||All except summer|
|Page Views: ||1,009|
|Submitted By: ||Karsten on Mar 22, 2006|
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Karsten climbs the beautiful 2nd pitch dihedral.
This underated climb is a fine outing that can be done as two pitches or as one long pitch with a 60m rope. The crux comes where you expect on the brilliant 2nd pitch dihedral.
Pitch 1: Begin to the right of Ride the Lightning in a left facing dihedral up to the base of the book.
Pitch 2: Use stemming, palming, fingerstacks to make your way up the perfect corner. You'll be wishing there was more.
Rap with two ropes.
Nuts and cams to one inch. Bolted anchor at top.
By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Nov 12, 2013
The first "pitch" is basically 5.5 choss that doesn't take much, if any, solid gear.