||Boulder, 1 pitch, 40'
|Consensus: || Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]|
|FA: ||Keller and Strong|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||475|
|Submitted By: ||Ryan Strong on Jun 13, 2012|
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Unknown clubber demonstrating the chair bivy, earl...
This problem has now been sent as a route that goes to the top. The start can be done three ways providing three different variations. A V2 off width problem to start , a V1 layback problem to start, or a stand start that still goes at 5.8.
Either way, once past the initial start, the crack is wide and it goes to the top. Some mandatory 5.8 off width was required here. We thought it was enjoyable, and I even threw in a foot stack or two.
Unlike most DL off width cracks that are surrounded by blocky ledges this was legit crack climbing.
(INFO on original boulder problem below)
This problem is super fun, and is one of a kind at the lake. OW roof crack problem, which we found best to climb feet first.
Starts on juggy flake inside crack. Finishes out and around roof about 10 feet up on an obvious jug.
Chair Bivy would be 4 star problem if not for two reasons: OW climbing could be by passed by lay backing the flake with low feet.
Chair Bivy Buttress, obvious wide splitter crack up the formation.
Some Large cams for the route.
A single pad and spotter will do the trick if just trying the boulder problem.
BETA PHOTO: Beta Photo. This is the buttress which is below we...
Keller rounding the corner.
Inch by inch through the business.
Giving Chair Bivy the old ground up go. It is hard...
Jun 14, 2012
Hey, "Description" "Location" etc show up twice. Looks like a "blue collar" route ;)
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Sep 12, 2012
Chris, is it possible to get this route sorted to the left of the Two Dead Ducks route on the Chair Bivy Buttress with out deleting it and re- adding all the of the info?
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Sep 12, 2012
Awesome looking line. Nice work!
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Sep 13, 2012
This looks cool, never seen this area before.