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 ADVANCED
Chair Bivy Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chair Bivy  
Two Dead Ducks T 

Chair Bivy  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Boulder, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: Keller and Strong
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Ryan Strong on Jun 13, 2012

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Unknown clubber demonstrating the chair bivy, earl...

Description 

This problem has now been sent as a route that goes to the top. The start can be done three ways providing three different variations. A V2 off width problem to start , a V1 layback problem to start, or a stand start that still goes at 5.8.

Either way, once past the initial start, the crack is wide and it goes to the top. Some mandatory 5.8 off width was required here. We thought it was enjoyable, and I even threw in a foot stack or two.

Unlike most DL off width cracks that are surrounded by blocky ledges this was legit crack climbing.



(INFO on original boulder problem below)
This problem is super fun, and is one of a kind at the lake. OW roof crack problem, which we found best to climb feet first.

Starts on juggy flake inside crack. Finishes out and around roof about 10 feet up on an obvious jug.

Chair Bivy would be 4 star problem if not for two reasons: OW climbing could be by passed by lay backing the flake with low feet.



Location 

Chair Bivy Buttress, obvious wide splitter crack up the formation.

Protection 

Some Large cams for the route.


A single pad and spotter will do the trick if just trying the boulder problem.


Photos of Chair Bivy Slideshow Add Photo
The start.
The start.
Beta Photo. This is the buttress which is below weissner's. Hopefully someone can help get this organized better.
BETA PHOTO: Beta Photo. This is the buttress which is below we...
Keller rounding the corner.
Keller rounding the corner.
Keller on the FA.
Keller on the FA.
Inch by inch through the business.
Inch by inch through the business.
Ryan just about done.
Ryan just about done.
Giving Chair Bivy the old ground up go. It is harder than I remembered. Could have used some bigger gear.
Giving Chair Bivy the old ground up go. It is hard...

Comments on Chair Bivy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Jun 14, 2012

Hey, "Description" "Location" etc show up twice. Looks like a "blue collar" route ;)
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Sep 12, 2012

Chris, is it possible to get this route sorted to the left of the Two Dead Ducks route on the Chair Bivy Buttress with out deleting it and re- adding all the of the info?
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 12, 2012

Yup.

Awesome looking line. Nice work!
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Sep 13, 2012

This looks cool, never seen this area before.