Chain Up

From the TABVAR facebook page, courtesy of Paul Taylor:

Fun and varied sport route in a fabulous setting. Some great positions. Some very prickly grey limestone.

Pitch 1: 20m, 11a
Pitch 2: 25m, 11a
Pitch 3: 28m, 10b
Pitch 4: 20m, 11c
Pitch 5: 18m, 10a

Location:

Far left end of Tall Story wall, starting from scree near to the base of the large waterfall. Approximately 150m left of all the other existing Tall Story Wall routes.
Aspect: NNW, evening sun from 6pm onwards.

Descent:

Rappel the route.

Alternatively, from the top it is possible to traverse the exposed ledge left for 30m (passing 2 bolts in place) to reach the talus bowl, and from there it is possible to hike to the Lookout area. However, this is longer and it is not possible to return to the base of the route.

Pitch descriptions:

Pitch 1: 20m, 11a. Follow left arching line of bolts to the obvious chain anchor below the big roof.

Pitch 2: 28m, 11a. Traverse directly right for 3m then up through the break in the roof. Traverse back left as soon as possible, then easier climbing up and left to reach an anchor at the base of an obvious chimney system. Use a few extendable draws to minimize rope drag.

Pitch 3: 28m, 10b. Start up the chimney for 5m, then go directly up the wall above. Follow bolts up to the big ledge, then traverse right 3m to the belay.

Pitch 4: 20m, 11c. Go directly up past 2 bolts, then stay low and make a tricky step left. Pass the 1st roof left of the 3rd bolt. Then directly up a small corner and over a 2nd roof, until able to easily step back right and pass the final 3rd roof. If you intend to link pitches 4 +5, place a couple of extendable draws to minimize rope drag.

Pitch 5: 18m, 10a. This pitch can be linked with pitch 4. Head up and slightly right to the massive ledge system and the end of the route.

150m up from tall storey

Gear: 13 draws, including 3 or 4 extendable, single rope.