|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Randy Farris & Mike Caldwell - 1987|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Aug 2, 2003|
|Comments on Chain of Command||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 3, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cool route, a little enervating due to some questionable rock. The first 'pitch' with 6 bolts had a 5.10 crux move around the 3rd or 4th bolt. The step across did not feel like the crux to me- you can make the move quickly and then go up to jugs to the anchor. From there clip both bolts and head up. The 'second pitch' crux is right above the bolts and needs no gear for safety. Mentally you might want it, but not practically. After a move or two it was easy enough to just go to the anchor. The climb overall is a two-crux wonder that is fun and sustained at the 5.10- level.
Pretty good. A little spicy not due to big fall potential, but rather due to the "wonder which hold might give" potential.
Easy for 11a? Maybe just my style. I powered through the crux but it did not feel technically difficult. People with less reach or shoulders might find it about right at the grade.
The top anchor should be replaced. It is not very good and one of the button-heads is sticking out, but felt secure. The death triangle up there is taking it's toll. There's not good gear backup, so it's not like you can just leave gear if you get there and one is too bad to trust.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 13, 2011
|Very fun. There are still some creaky holds, so watch out! I noticed in general the underclings are sketchy, while the crimps and sidepulls are solid. Sporty bolting. We couldn't figure out where the 3rd pitch was, so we bailed.|