Chadbourne Crag  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Elevation:  8,600' Lat, Long:  40.6569, -111.754 Map Page Views:  2,132. Good page?    Administrators:  Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Alec on Aug 11, 2009 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Elliot about halfway up Feature Attraction

Description 

The Chadbourne Crag is a series of steep, pocketed limestone caves in upper Neff's Canyon. Developed in 1996 by Chad Zurinshas et al, the crag contains a couple dozen routes ranging from 5.10a to 5.13c. It's known for two things: the arduous approach and suspect rock quality, both of which are pretty much true. It's about an hour's hike from the parking lot, and while some routes consist of stone rivaling the best of American Fork Canyon, others are choss-fests resembling the worst of Hellgate. A few gems have emerged in the pocketed caves, though, most in the mid-5.12 range.

This is an excellent location for mid-summer sport climbing as it is a west-facing crag a couple thousand feet above the valley floor. Most of the lower-angled routes are quite chossy, and like Hellgate, helmets are highly recommended for belayers.

Getting There 

First, make your way to the Neff's Canyon parking lot:

Take 3300 South or 3900 South to Mill Creek Canyon Road. At the four-way intersection, take a right onto Park View Drive. Follow this uphill until Park Terrace Drive on the left, then up to White Way on the right. Drive to the end of the road and park.

Take the wide Neff's Canyon trail 3/4 of a mile to the stream(bed). Stay left here and cross further upstream in a grove of Maple trees. Stay right after the flat area on a well-defined trail, climbing gradually until a slight downhill section. There will be a side trail on the right, then a small limestone boulder on the left soon afterwards. Turn right at the boulder onto a steep trail. This winds up a hillside, switchbacking up to a ridge. Follow the ridge up and eventually you'll see the limestone caves.
Plan an hour for the approach.

The Classics

Featured Route For Chadbourne Crag

Feature Attraction 5.11a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Chadbourne Crag

A vertical to slightly overhanging route third from the bottom of the wall. Climb slabby stone to two bolts then up a vertical flake system to a small ledge. Have a rest, clip the last bolt and fire the roof to clip the chains. Quite good for the wall, and a good warm-up for the steeper routes uphill....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT