The Chadbourne Crag is a series of steep, pocketed limestone caves in upper Neff's Canyon. Developed in 1996 by Chad Zurinshas et al, the crag contains a couple dozen routes ranging from 5.10a to 5.13c. It's known for two things: the arduous approach and suspect rock quality, both of which are pretty much true. It's about an hour's hike from the parking lot, and while some routes consist of stone rivaling the best of American Fork Canyon
, others are choss-fests resembling the worst of Hellgate
. A few gems have emerged in the pocketed caves, though, most in the mid-5.12 range.
This is an excellent location for mid-summer sport climbing as it is a west-facing crag a couple thousand feet above the valley floor. Most of the lower-angled routes are quite chossy, and like Hellgate
, helmets are highly recommended for belayers.
First, make your way to the Neff's Canyon parking lot:
Take 3300 South or 3900 South to Mill Creek Canyon Road. At the four-way intersection, take a right onto Park View Drive. Follow this uphill until Park Terrace Drive on the left, then up to White Way on the right. Drive to the end of the road and park.
Take the wide Neff's Canyon trail 3/4 of a mile to the stream(bed). Stay left here and cross further upstream in a grove of Maple trees. Stay right after the flat area on a well-defined trail, climbing gradually until a slight downhill section. There will be a side trail on the right, then a small limestone boulder on the left soon afterwards. Turn right at the boulder onto a steep trail. This winds up a hillside, switchbacking up to a ridge. Follow the ridge up and eventually you'll see the limestone caves.
Plan an hour for the approach.
Climbing Season Traffic By Month
12 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Chadbourne Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chadbourne Crag:
Point Man 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 60'
Half Cab 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 80'
Featured Route For Chadbourne Crag
Slice of Pie 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Chadbourne Crag
Another excellent line tackling the second cave uphill from the main trail. Start below the obvious flake on the right side of the cave on crimpers, then traverse the juggy flake. Clip the third bolt, then commit to a series of mail slots and thrilling two-finger pockets to jugs at the top of the cave. Joins Beam and Coke (5.12d) at the third bolt. For me, the crux was just getting to the chains; it's thin above the last bolt....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Local Information for Chadbourne Crag
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 28, 2011
For you all that have a GPS unit or smartphone with GPS,
The turnoff off the main trail is at:
The crag itself is at:
By Marley Nelson
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 12, 2013
My favorite 5.12's are up here. I would highly recommend going if you are getting 12's in a few goes, It sucks to project up here because of long hike(if your a gym rat) but totally worth a few day trips!
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 25, 2014
I absolutely LOVE this piece of stone! Though somewhat slightly chossy, the climbing it creates is a blast. It's a beautiful hike, it's much cooler in the hot summer, and you can't help but have a great time. Get your thug on!!!