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The Chadbourne Crag is a series of steep, pocketed limestone caves in upper Neff's Canyon. Developed in 1996 by Chad Zurinshas et al, the crag contains a couple dozen routes ranging from 5.10a to 5.13c. It's known for two things: the arduous approach and suspect rock quality, both of which are pretty much true. It's about an hour's hike from the parking lot, and while some routes consist of stone rivaling the best of American Fork Canyon, others are choss-fests resembling the worst of Hellgate. A few gems have emerged in the pocketed caves, though, most in the mid-5.12 range.
First, make your way to the Neff's Canyon parking lot:
12 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chadbourne Crag:
Feature Attraction 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 60'
Point Man 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 60'
Vagrant Circle 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 50'
No Man's Land 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 60'
Half Cab 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 80'
Slice of Pie 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 50'
Piston Bully 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 70'
Beam and Coke 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Chadbourne Crag
No Man's Land 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Chadbourne Crag
Right in front of the grove of trees uphill from Slice of Pie and the second deep cave of the crag. Climbs out steep pockets via big moves to a large rail three bolts up. The rest of the route traverses up and right on adequate holds. This is pretty soft compared to the other .12s on the wall, and thus probably a good choice for breaking into the grade. Getting off-route at all after the fourth bolt will lead you to a garden of choss. ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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