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Chadbourne Crag

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Beam and Coke S 
Feature Attraction S 
Gray Boy S 
Half Cab S 
Inconthievable S 
Little Buddy S 
No Man's Land S 
Piston Bully S 
Point Man S 
Slice of Pie S 
Tenacious Z S 
Vagrant Circle S 
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Chadbourne Crag 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,600'
Location: 40.6569, -111.754 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,643
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Alec on Aug 11, 2009
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Description 

The Chadbourne Crag is a series of steep, pocketed limestone caves in upper Neff's Canyon. Developed in 1996 by Chad Zurinshas et al, the crag contains a couple dozen routes ranging from 5.10a to 5.13c. It's known for two things: the arduous approach and suspect rock quality, both of which are pretty much true. It's about an hour's hike from the parking lot, and while some routes consist of stone rivaling the best of American Fork Canyon, others are choss-fests resembling the worst of Hellgate. A few gems have emerged in the pocketed caves, though, most in the mid-5.12 range.

This is an excellent location for mid-summer sport climbing as it is a west-facing crag a couple thousand feet above the valley floor. Most of the lower-angled routes are quite chossy, and like Hellgate, helmets are highly recommended for belayers.


Getting There 

First, make your way to the Neff's Canyon parking lot:

Take 3300 South or 3900 South to Mill Creek Canyon Road. At the four-way intersection, take a right onto Park View Drive. Follow this uphill until Park Terrace Drive on the left, then up to White Way on the right. Drive to the end of the road and park.

Take the wide Neff's Canyon trail 3/4 of a mile to the stream(bed). Stay left here and cross further upstream in a grove of Maple trees. Stay right after the flat area on a well-defined trail, climbing gradually until a slight downhill section. There will be a side trail on the right, then a small limestone boulder on the left soon afterwards. Turn right at the boulder onto a steep trail. This winds up a hillside, switchbacking up to a ridge. Follow the ridge up and eventually you'll see the limestone caves.
Plan an hour for the approach.


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',3],['5.12',7],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chadbourne Crag:
Feature Attraction   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Vagrant Circle   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 50'   
No Man's Land   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 60'   
Slice of Pie   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 50'   
Piston Bully   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 70'   
Beam and Coke   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Chadbourne Crag

Featured Route For Chadbourne Crag
Elliot about halfway up Feature Attraction

Feature Attraction 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Chadbourne Crag
A vertical to slightly overhanging route third from the bottom of the wall. Climb slabby stone to two bolts then up a vertical flake system to a small ledge. Have a rest, clip the last bolt and fire the roof to clip the chains. Quite good for the wall, and a good warm-up for the steeper routes uphill....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Chadbourne Crag Add Comment
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By sfotex
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 28, 2011

For you all that have a GPS unit or smartphone with GPS,
The turnoff off the main trail is at:
N40 40.325'
W111 45.995'

The crag itself is at:
N40 40.115'
W111 45.621'

By Marley Nelson
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 12, 2013

My favorite 5.12's are up here. I would highly recommend going if you are getting 12's in a few goes, It sucks to project up here because of long hike(if your a gym rat) but totally worth a few day trips!

By Halley13
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 25, 2014

I absolutely LOVE this piece of stone! Though somewhat slightly chossy, the climbing it creates is a blast. It's a beautiful hike, it's much cooler in the hot summer, and you can't help but have a great time. Get your thug on!!!