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Can Torxa
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Chachi qui Chapi 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 1,243
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009

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Resting below the first of two successively harder...

Description 

The best line at Can Torxa and one of the best 7a's at Margalef. This orange, leaning wall is also one of the steepest 5.11's around, overhanging a good 15 feet. Fortunately the size of the holds is proportional, making this juggy line fun & popular. Don't expect a cruise though; this route is pumpy, with a bouldery crux just below the anchor.

To start, grab the hanging shelf, huck your feet up & campus up the big smooth jugs until its possible to mantle up. Killer pockets head up & left to an undercling flake. Work up sinker pockets left of the black tufa streak to a good rest at a hole. Clear the orange bulge to reach a horizontal break and a good shake below the crux. Exit the intimidating roof to the left on small but positive pockets.

Location 

At the center of Can Torxa is a large dihedral with an orange, overhanging left face. The line of bolts heading up the orange face is "Chachi qui Chapi".

Protection 

~8 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.


Photos of Chachi qui Chapi Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: After a dynamic start, juggy pockets lead up the s...
After a dynamic start, juggy pockets lead up the s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising the steep, juggy wall.
Cruising the steep, juggy wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the excellent "Chachi qui Chapi"...
Enjoying the excellent "Chachi qui Chapi"...

Comments on Chachi qui Chapi Add Comment
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By dnoB ekiM
Mar 13, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A classic! Not to be missed. An amazing line of pocket that don't hurt (like so many pockets do here). A pumpy little masterpiece!

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