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CG's Naked Fun Time 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown, 2000?
Page Views: 2,871
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Nov 8, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations. Upda...

Description 

Note 1: Bernard Gillett's guidebook shows a route named Stegosaurus (5.9R, one bolt) at this location. It is not known if "CG's Naked Fun Time" is a retro-bolted version of Stegosaurus or if they are different climbs.

Note 2: This could become a dangerous climb, as there are/were a number of loose flakes on the route, including one that could certainly cut your rope in 2 if it were pulled off, seems fairly lodged but does move quite a bit, there may be an 'X' still visible, if not, the flake in question is located just between bolt 3 and 4 to the right of the bolt line, be very careful not to pull this down onto your belayer as there could be bad consequences !!!

This route is located just downhill from "Slabbed Up-Side da Head" and the 2 obvious pine trees. The first bolt is located just below an obvious undercling, fairly chalked. From here the climbing climbs straight up. This route is considered to be PG-13 as a fall after the 2nd bolt may be a long one, with a couple loose flakes in between. Be careful to pull down and not out. I think this route is a good example of someone who was a little 'anxious' to bolt a route without properly preparing the route, removing dangerous flakes which can be pulled off on the lead. It would be a good idea to remove these flakes in the future so nobody gets hurt, especially belayers. This route is a 'BOMB' in my opinion, especially because of the laziness of the bolt equipper. See for yourself when you are there. Cheers.

Location 

This route is located just downhill from "Slabbed Up-Side da Head" and the 2 obvious pine trees.

Protection 

4 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of CG's Naked Fun Time Slideshow Add Photo
Enjoying the moves.
Enjoying the moves.
CG's Naked Fun (4 bolts to anchor).
BETA PHOTO: CG's Naked Fun (4 bolts to anchor).
This is the 10a/b route, very fun moves and a good...
This is the 10a/b route, very fun moves and a good...

Comments on CG's Naked Fun Time Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Jun 10, 2002

I have found out that the name of the route should be "CG's Naked Fun Time" and the rating is somewhere around 10b-ish, all depending on line, etc....

J.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 10, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Perhaps someone cleaned the loose flakes? Not so bad. PG-13, yes. Dries quickly after an afternoon dump.
By Ammon
Sep 2, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I am not quite sure of the history of this route, but in Gillett's book, it is named 'Stegosaurus' and is rated at 5.9. I have climbed this enjoyable little route about 6 times over the last few weeks. Apparently, the route is named CG's Naked Fun Time. I would say this route definitely goes at 5.10a/b, depending on moves used.

I would also add that the route has fairly diverse moves, and after the 2nd bolt, is pretty consistent in the 5.10a/b grade. I recommend this climb for its somewhat challenging nature and the enjoyability of the moves. The route is shaded in the morning 'til noon, and again, in the evening.
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Someone should fix the anchor at the top of this route!

If I had rope or webbing with me, I would have done it, but we left due to rain.

At the top, there are 2 bolts with rap rings that look solid. I imagine someone wanted to avoid having the rope go over the edge, so they tied rope (7mm rope in loops I think) to the bolts and extended it to two more rap rings over the edge. The problem:

They tied the rope in a loop going through both bolts and the rap rings so it forms a triangle. That greatly increases the force on the bolts because of the added opposing horizontal force generated.

Either it should be done with multiple loops and a sliding X or separate loops from each bolt to the rap rings.

I imagine even with the force multiplication it is ok for rappelling, but if someone were to clip into the lower rap rings or the slings for top roping, it would be an incredibly bad setup.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Jul 18, 2010

Ok, so a little info on this little route. It went up in the summer of 2000. We were pretty sure Stegosaurus was to the right, as this climbing was harder and we cleaned some obvious loose rock, but maybe we messed up. Also, there weren't many of the other bolted routes there at the time, if I remember right.

So anyway, if it is indeed PG-13 and that's out of character with the rest of the climbs at this area, someone should redo the bolts, I live about 4 hours away and likely wouldn't get up there anytime soon. I'll even send the hardware if you want.
By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 18, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Still needs chains on the anchor- 10a.
The angle of the slings/bolts is inconsequential- the age of the webbing is the only issue and as all other anchors here are chains...seems the way to go.
Easy to pop over the top and walk-off to the south or vice-versa...easy to set-up a top-rope by scrambling around to the top.
By Peter Swank
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun line, but wish it was longer. Good pumpy route that has some distance between bolts. Still needs chains on anchor.
By steple
Aug 21, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The route description should be updated: There are no loose flakes. The route is also perfectly safe (not PG 13). The bolts however could have better alignment and the anchor should be four feet further left and also lower to avoid rope drag when lowering or pulling the rope. The only reason why the anchor would be so far right of the bolt line would be easy access from the back to set up a top rope.