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Ceuse In July/August (Kalymnos, Cortina, and Gimmelwald too)
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By Eric Schnepel
From Portland
Mar 10, 2014
The rail of Dracula. Classic moves

I'll be heading to Ceuse this summer for all of July and the first week of August. I will be travelling alone and staying at the Gite across from the trail head. If anyone will be in Ceuse around that time and would like to climb, I'd be psyched to partner up. I'll climb whatever grade, but would prefer routes within the 7a-8a+ range. Give me a shout regardless of skill level, however, as I'm just psyched to get out and climb at one of the best crags in the world!

P.S. I'll be travelling throughout Europe in June and will be in Kalymnos from June 4-12, Cortina, Italy from June 19-25, and Gimmelwald, Switzerland from June 25-29. If anyone is going to be in these areas, let me know. Let's go climb!

Eric


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By Lance Taysom
From Pocatello
Mar 19, 2014

Hey Eric,

My wife & I will be in Switzerland arriving June 26 in Zurich. Do not have firm plans until meeting friends in Basel on the 2nd of July. We would be very interested in climbing and hiking for a few days. Are you planning to stay in huts/hotels/hostels? What is a Gite? Are you bringing camping gear? We want to travel light - not bringing a tent will save some space but also means we may be limited on travel options. i'm planning for mostly warm weather with some possible frosty nights? We will have some light fleece & gortex but not bringing any alpine gear like poly pro under layers, leather/plastic boots, gaiters, mittens.... does that sound reasonable? Just trying to get by with smallish packs and a single duffle between us.

We climb mostly easy to moderate trad & sport routes up to about 5.9ish. Can TR up to 11ish but not interested in plugging gear on sight at over 5.8/5.9. I'm planning one 60m rope and a light rack with one set stoppers and cams. Bringing a bunch of draws and some runners. Never been to Europe, any advise you have is appreciated.

We will be firming up our plans over the next few weeks. My email is tayslanc@isu.edu

Thanks, Lance


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By Eric Schnepel
From Portland
Mar 20, 2014
The rail of Dracula. Classic moves

Lance,

While in Switzerland, I will only be in Gimmelwald. I'll be staying in hotels/hostels the entire time. A Gite is a basically a French Hostel. Anyway, if you can make it to Gimmelwald, there is an unbelievably beautiful crag nearby that I am super psyched to check out (see link below). However, the crag warm-up is 7c+, and it only gets harder from there. I have heard the hiking nearby is beautiful as well, so Gimmelwald may be worth checking out even if hard sport is not your thing.

Can't give too much advice on Europe as it will by my first trip too.


www.gimmelwald.ch/pic/new/activities/klettergarten.jpg

Happy travels!

Eric


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By Lance Taysom
From Pocatello
Mar 29, 2014

Eric,

Thanks for the tip.

Lance


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By Henrique
May 5, 2014

Hi guys,

@Eric, I'm in Switzerland until august but I won't have much time for long trips, very unfortunately!
If your time allows, you should definitely checkout "Rawyl" (near Sion) and also "Lehn" in Interlaken (on the way to Gimmelwald) for this grade range sport climbing. There are loads of smaller crags all around too but you'll have enough to do there already!
I'll probably find more people, so don't worry, but if you don't you can always write me and I will happily join you for a weekend or so :)
I don't live too far away.

@Lance, it can be quite warm here during this time but showers are very common too. You'll probably only need your fleece if you stay above 1000m. Around 2000-3000, I'd take a light down jacket too, and above that full winter clothing hehe. Some shady crags at 1000m will also almost require a down jacket actually, but you can easy avoid them on good weather.
For your rack, you'll have to really aim for trad in order to use it here. 99% of the routes are bolted, even some really long ones, but some lower grades can fit some pieces to reduce the run-outs so it can be handy for sure. For more trad, have a look on Salbit (nice long routes on good granite), Medji (shorter but steeper, often bolted), Cadarese in Italy or around Chamonix in France. Well, there are mixed routes all around, grimselpass, ticino, etc but it's very common to see a bolt right next to the crack! No!!
There are also some real test pieces "full alpine" like the Eiger northface (nothing but some old pitons on the rock) the grade is low but loads of loose rock and snow.
For the grade, if your 5.9 is from Yosemite or so then you'll go far here, there is some old school hardcore grading too in some places but most of it is quite soft compared.
Anyway, there are so many places, routes and guide books for this little country, if you let me know more what you're looking for maybe I can give you better advise.

Happy climbing!
Henrique


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By Jean Spencer
From Boulder, CO
May 7, 2014
climbing at avalon

Hi Eric,
I'm headed to Paris to visit my brother July 4-13. I'd love to take a quick detour to Ceuse to climb! I'm don't think I'm quite as strong as you, but can hold my own on .12s (7a-7b). Let me know, and maybe we could chat before you head out?


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By Eric Schnepel
From Portland
May 7, 2014
The rail of Dracula. Classic moves

Henrique and Jean - PMs sent.


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By EthanA
May 10, 2014

Hey Eric,

I will be flying into Southern France (Cannes specifically) a couple weeks into July on my own as well (although my family is in Cannes). Besides seeing my mother and grandmother for a couple days my main focus will be to climb.

I'm considering participating in this for my last week:

www.ucpa.co.uk/sejour/SFAVDPM10-escalade-grandes-voies-climb>>>

as I would really like to learn multipitch as well as brush up on my French and become more acquainted with the French climbing terminology. But otherwise I'll be going where ever the wind blows.

A bit about me, I hail from Richmond, Virginia although I grew up on the outskirts of DC. I've been climbing around 2 years or so now (only sport). I climb around 5.11c/d and am just really beginning to find my way onto 12s. I guess that means 7a is probably where I'm really at in terms of limits. I speak fluent French (French mother).

My dates officially are from the July 13th-August 12, and the camp thing is from the August 3-10. Upon arrival I'll probably spend a few days with my family, and then I can head up (Ceuse is about 3-4 hours from Cannes) around the 16th or 17th.

Shoot me a message!


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