Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Begin atop some boulders at the base of the prominent wall just a hundred meters north of the large cement slab by the river. Traverse up and left in the rotten band with poor pro. Reach a huge flake with good pro - place pro as far right as you can, and add a long runner to it. Surmount the flake, head right and around a corner (tricky - stay low to make it easier). Follow a beautiful finger crack up and right until it meets another crack (where you will find two pins - use really long runners). Now work up then sharply left to a two-bolt anchor. Expect bad rope drag. 160 feet.
You can rappel with on 60m rope if you are very careful and downclimb from the ledge.
The "easy" climbing goes something like this: after traversing up and left (along a sort of rock stratum, toward Cest la Vie), traverse back right under a small overhang, head up a thin, right leaning crux crack, and then traverse back left to the fixed anchor (near the right margin of the large Cest la Vie dihedral). Bring 2 ropes to rappel.
The anchors at the top of C'est La Morte and Whistle Stop (they end with the same upper part of the crack and left traverse) are set such that one 165ft rope will get you down... JUST BARELY... to the boulders leaning on the wall. Make sure the ends are even!
Three stars might be a little generous, but it's still a pretty good route. I remember it having an appetite for small, springy things; in other words, TCUs are very helpful. In summer, too, it sports an active hive of small wasps that don't seem particularly aggressive, though they are numerous. Naturally, they're housed very near the crux. The comment about a 50m rope just reaching the 'ledge' is completely accurate. The ends of the rope come through your ATC (or whatever) just as your feet touch. Mind your balance!
By Ernie Port From: Boulder, Colorado Jul 2, 2003 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Cool, exposed moves half way up, as you exit the lower face moving right and connecting with the upper crack. Same finish as Flakes. From the chains, 60m rope took us right to the start with rope to spare.
By Clint Locks From: Boulder Jun 24, 2004 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Remember to protect the second at the end of the climb, before the anchors. It'd be a pretty good swing. By that, of course, I mean a pretty BAD swing.
By Shane Zentner From: Colorado Oct 9, 2004 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Fun climb. I didn't see the 'RP crack' that the guidebook mentioned. A bit cool in the shade, smokin' in the sunlight. This would be a fun winter route.
Sweet route, at least as good as C'est la Vie (p1). Don't bother with gear until the undercling. I didn't find RPs necessary... the crack sews up with medium stoppers.
By Ivan Rezucha From: Fort Collins, CO Dec 29, 2005 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
A very good variation is to climb the variation left of The Flakes start (the right-angling ramp) to the left edge of the Flakes ledge and then step left to the base of the C'est la Morte crack (see Guy Humphrey's photo, but note that the 2nd and 3rd visible pieces of gear in that photo are on thumpy rock--I didn't use either of those). The rope runs straighter than either the regular C'est la Morte, The Flakes or the regular Flakes start to C'est la Morte. Gear is good. A #3 Camalot at the ledge with a double length sling protects the step left to the base of the C'est la Morte crack, and a #2 Camalot up and left will keep you there (at the base of the crack).
In Guy Humphrey's excellent photo, the climber has a piece attached to a long purple runner behind a "thumpy" flake (third piece from bottom of the photo). This flake is AWOL. The reach up into the crack is now a tad harder. Still felt like 5.9-ish, but this felt like the crux move of the pitch.
Dude, I got a great #1 Ballnut in behind one of those solid(er) looking rocks in the 5.6 section. Totally bomber. Also, totally nasty rope drag at the top. Be smarter than me. Place long runners on your pieces before moving right around the roof.
I did this route many years ago before some of the loose flakes were "cleaned off." My comment in my notebook was "the lower pro is only as good as the flakes." I'd suggest breaking it into 2 short leads to reduce rope drag. A single 60 meter rope should suffice to get off, and a 70 meter is "no sweat."