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Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress
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A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Anthill/Redguard Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Archer McLenahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Back in Black S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Backtalk T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Balance of Terror T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Blunt Buttress, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Genesis T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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I Can't Copeland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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I Can't Copeland Free T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Lakme T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a PG13 |
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Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Restless Nights T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Slack Walk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Vaporizer, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,691 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 6, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
There are a few cruxes to this route, one early as for C'est La Morte and then a few later. Presuming I found the correct line of least resistance, the route is 5.9 for "pitch one" and 5.9 for "pitch two." Buyer beware- the second pitch is not a well defined line and might be harder or dirty if you miss it.
As well, I am not describing the belay as we climbed the route without one- opting to go 70 meters on lead, and then 20 meters more simul-climbing to a gear belay just down and below the large Juniper tree on Lower Juniper Ledge, for a total of a 270' pitch + 30 feet to the tree after belaying.
Climb C'est La Morte, to the end of the thin crack of Whistle Stop, where 2 tightly spaced lost Arrow pitons are found. Clip these and continue climbing (or back them up and belay here?). Continue up a few more feet of thin crack and head up and right into a dark bulge. You will see an old ring-angle piton almost directly above you into the overhangs, perhaps 10 feet up. Climb up and right of these, passing a less-worthy Lost Arrow (don't clip unless you have a very long runner). From the position above the L.A., climb back up and left past the ring angle and clip that (long slings). Continue up and slightly left on dark rock with a few moves worthy of consideration, and then aiming to intercept the ramp of the Anthill route. This is somewhat runout, but mostly easy.
If you did not at any time yet belay, your partner is now certainly simul-climbing and you are most certainly runout, so find a belay or trust your partner and yourself.
Once on top of this climb, the obvious finishes are on Anthill, PA's Variation, or Archer-McLanahan.
As well, I am not describing the belay as we climbed the route without one- opting to go 70 meters on lead, and then 20 meters more simul-climbing to a gear belay just down and below the large Juniper tree on Lower Juniper Ledge, for a total of a 270' pitch + 30 feet to the tree after belaying.
Climb C'est La Morte, to the end of the thin crack of Whistle Stop, where 2 tightly spaced lost Arrow pitons are found. Clip these and continue climbing (or back them up and belay here?). Continue up a few more feet of thin crack and head up and right into a dark bulge. You will see an old ring-angle piton almost directly above you into the overhangs, perhaps 10 feet up. Climb up and right of these, passing a less-worthy Lost Arrow (don't clip unless you have a very long runner). From the position above the L.A., climb back up and left past the ring angle and clip that (long slings). Continue up and slightly left on dark rock with a few moves worthy of consideration, and then aiming to intercept the ramp of the Anthill route. This is somewhat runout, but mostly easy.
If you did not at any time yet belay, your partner is now certainly simul-climbing and you are most certainly runout, so find a belay or trust your partner and yourself.
Once on top of this climb, the obvious finishes are on Anthill, PA's Variation, or Archer-McLanahan.
Photos
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