Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: Eric Eliason, Cado Avenali and Pete Lev - 1972
Page Views: 11,520 total · 54/month
Shared By: Zac Robinson on Sep 24, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route was probably named this scary name because it was first climbed back when large protection was unavailable. With modern big gear one could sew it up if the climbing gear budget was big enough.

The large OW is visible from the schoolroom area and once at the base, you can really see how big it really is. My guess is that you will be frustratingly close to squeezing into the chimney. Close but no cigar.

Right side in, or left side in... that is always debatable. And I have had multiple climbing partners tell me that I do routes the "wrong way" 75% of the time.

Location Suggest change

On the Upper Waterfront. I usually will just scramble up the slabs just right of Disco Duck, but you can access the Upper Waterfront after some scrambling from the top of Paranoia Streak.

It starts in the big crack just behind the pillar that leans out and right.

Protection Suggest change

Big cams. as in the Big Green Monster, the (new) #6 Camalot or the big green Friend. These will probably protect the crack decently well if you push it deep in there. (2 of these might be nice along with a #5 camalot)

We placed 2 #4 Big Bros. Mostly just because we had them and they needed to see some action. If you've got them, use them, if not you should still be fine.

The top section protects well with a single set and maybe some stoppers.

There is a bolted anchor with rap rings at the top of the route. you could also build a belay from the slung horn at the top. You need 2 ropes to get down.

Photos

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