Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | Eric Eliason, Cado Avenali and Pete Lev - 1972 |
Page Views: | 11,520 total · 54/month |
Shared By: | Zac Robinson on Sep 24, 2006 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route was probably named this scary name because it was first climbed back when large protection was unavailable. With modern big gear one could sew it up if the climbing gear budget was big enough.
The large OW is visible from the schoolroom area and once at the base, you can really see how big it really is. My guess is that you will be frustratingly close to squeezing into the chimney. Close but no cigar.
Right side in, or left side in... that is always debatable. And I have had multiple climbing partners tell me that I do routes the "wrong way" 75% of the time.
The large OW is visible from the schoolroom area and once at the base, you can really see how big it really is. My guess is that you will be frustratingly close to squeezing into the chimney. Close but no cigar.
Right side in, or left side in... that is always debatable. And I have had multiple climbing partners tell me that I do routes the "wrong way" 75% of the time.
Location
On the Upper Waterfront. I usually will just scramble up the slabs just right of Disco Duck, but you can access the Upper Waterfront after some scrambling from the top of Paranoia Streak.
It starts in the big crack just behind the pillar that leans out and right.
It starts in the big crack just behind the pillar that leans out and right.
Protection
Big cams. as in the Big Green Monster, the (new) #6 Camalot or the big green Friend. These will probably protect the crack decently well if you push it deep in there. (2 of these might be nice along with a #5 camalot)
We placed 2 #4 Big Bros. Mostly just because we had them and they needed to see some action. If you've got them, use them, if not you should still be fine.
The top section protects well with a single set and maybe some stoppers.
There is a bolted anchor with rap rings at the top of the route. you could also build a belay from the slung horn at the top. You need 2 ropes to get down.
We placed 2 #4 Big Bros. Mostly just because we had them and they needed to see some action. If you've got them, use them, if not you should still be fine.
The top section protects well with a single set and maybe some stoppers.
There is a bolted anchor with rap rings at the top of the route. you could also build a belay from the slung horn at the top. You need 2 ropes to get down.
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