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 ADVANCED
Atlantis Wall - Right
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anointed Seagull T 
Ceremony T 
Hot Crystals T 
Labyrinth, The T 
Men with Cow's Heads T 
Pocket Pussy T 
Self Abuse T 
Solar Technology T 
Taurus T 
Unwiped Butt T 
Wet Pigeon T 

Ceremony 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Evans, Craig Fry, Jim Angione, Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon and Alan Bartlett, 3/88
Page Views: 923
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Ceremony start...super fun and tech!

Description 

The climb starts on (or near) an exposed root at the base of the wall. Thin face climbing past one bolt (about 12' up) to a thin finger/off-finger crack.

The lower section is harder than it looks!

Location 

Ceremony ascends the face left of Solar Technology, near the left side of the central portion of the Atlantis face.

Protection 

One bolt, plus thin rack to 2". Long slings may help with setting anchor on top.


Photos of Ceremony Slideshow Add Photo
1-12-03
BETA PHOTO: 1-12-03
"Ceremony". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Ceremony". Photo by Blitzo.
Tiny.
Tiny.

Comments on Ceremony Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 12, 2012
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 15, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route is reall nice and a great intro to the complex and small moves required for 5.10-5.11 at J-tree. The moves are not terribly difficult once figured out, but require some thought and faith in small holds.

The move required to attain the position from which to clip the first bolt are difficult, although the crux is just above the clip. This is a potential ankle-twister.
By RTM
Apr 16, 2003

Not to mention a little faith in that rusty little bolt!

or has it been replaced?
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 16, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I do not recall considering the bolt to be poor, nor do I recall seeing it and thinking "nice new bolt." All I can conclude from this is that it was unremarkable. If it was an odl 1/4" spinner, it must have been replaced.
By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 16, 2003

The bolt has been replaced with a 3/8"
By David Evans
May 15, 2003

I placed that 1/4" bolt while leading the FA from the one foot stance. It was a somewhat strenuous drill. I did have a decent spot though!
By Murf
Oct 6, 2003

Reled this the other day. To paraphrase a great movie, "Dave, you are so money". Drilling from stances that many people hate to clip from is true JT hard man style.
By Steven Powers
Oct 6, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

another "one move wonder" climb after the bolt the climbing eases after the moe by the bolt, with a good spotter this route should not be dangerous at all once the bolt is cliped your in there, just hang one move then its 5.8 jugs and jams the rest of the way. good route.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jul 2, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

As Steve-o wrote, the moves are right off the ground and once you reach the single bolt it eases up considerably. But those few move to that bolt are alot of fun and though it eases up above it, it is still a fun and worthy climb.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

I really enjoyed the moves on this climb. The first bolt is solid pro, but since it is up almost 15' I decided to top rope the climb instead of an onsight attempt at the grade. 15' of balancy .10c moves with no pro didn't seem like a lot of "fun" to me. However, I would say the grade is about right, and compares well with Big Bear and other climbs in the High Desert at the same grade. Maybe even a little soft compared with other J-Tree areas... I just say this to not let the grade scare you off! Great climb!

Amazing job with the drilling on the FA! I understand why the bolt is up that high - the stances below the bolt would have been nearly impossible to drill from.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 5, 2012

I'd characterize this climb as .10a to the first bolt with the .10c crux right after the bolt. This is an exciting lead for sure!
By Brian Chastain
Mar 12, 2012

That bolt is 1/4". It has a newer style/thick hanger, but the bolt is not a stud style nor is it 3/8". Was on it yesterday.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 12, 2012

Chris (C Miller) is right, the original 1/4" bolt was replaced some time back with a 3/8" rawl 5-piece and metolius hanger.