Cerebral Palsy (Barber Route)
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This is a good sporty line on the right side of the main wall. Though if has a couple bolts don't expect anything less than heads up climbing. Look for a glue-in bolt, climb to that and prepare yourself for some cranking on okay gear. I had a purple BD cam I think sticking straight out, and I also slung the obvious flake... Move up ramp to 2nd bolt then up a flared hand crack to the belay. I am not too sure of the history with the bolts on this line. Were they there for the FA??? Just curious.
Right side, main wall
Wires, tcus, set of cams.
|Comments on Cerebral Palsy (Barber Route)
|By Jake Hutchins|
Aug 8, 2009
You can also finish up on the left hand bolted line that keeps the route a little bit harder. I think it is called Lobotomy, 5.10ish. good.
The second bolt was put up on the first ascent by David Lovejoy (aid) and the FFA was Henry Barber and Steve Dieckhoff. The glue in was added later, and Steve Dieckhoff reportedly asked that the bolt be removed (it is a 6in glue in). There also used to be a tree so you could avoid the crux, which was cut down many years ago.
But go do the route it is one of the classic lines of the Dells.
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 5, 2010
Thanks for the info Jake. You could grind off that bolt, but I think making people aware of it's installation is enough. For the true experience though you can skip it!