Cerebral Palsy (Barber Route)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad |
FA: | Hot Henry Barber, Steve Dieckhoff |
Page Views: | 1,845 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Nov 23, 2006 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
This is a good trad line on the right side of the main wall. Though it has a couple bolts, don't expect anything less than heads up climbing. Look for a glue-in bolt, climb to that and prepare yourself for some cranking on okay gear. I had a purple BD cam I think sticking straight out, and I also slung the obvious flake... Move up the ramp to 2nd bolt then up a flared hand crack to the belay.
New light has been shed on the history of the bolts (see comments). Given that Hot Henry Barber was known for incredibly bold ascents, he may have done the FA on gear. The first bolt is an unsanctioned retro bolt. None the less climbing a Barber route is always exciting.
2 Comments