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The Far Side
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18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
5.8 TR 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Curse of Madame C S 
Death to the Right T 
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Gorilla Finishing School S 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Left Behind T 
Lichen It T 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpio Rising  S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 

Cereal Killer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jerry Dodrill, Chris Summit, March 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 829
Submitted By: Dodrill on Mar 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Eric Berghorn on Cereal Killer


This route is on the protruding arete in the gully between "Death to the Right" and "Feelin' Your Oats." 4th class up the initial short face to a big ledge. Climb blocks for a couple moves to the first bolt. Commit to the pocketed arete and take it to the top of the cliff (bottom edge of The Chief formation). Much of the route can be chimneyed to the right at an easier grade, ~5.9.


The more you stay on the arete, the more classic and challenging it is.


4 bolts to anchor on ledge. Offers easy access to The Chief and upper cliff areas. If you are at the Chief this route offers a very straightforward rappel down to the lower tier base (easier than hiking around).

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By Floyd Hayes
Jul 12, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

After clipping the first bolt by climbing the chimney to the right, I downclimbed and tried leading the arete from the base of the arete and thought it was much harder than 5.10a. I found myself instinctively sticking a foot out on the rock wall to the left and, when I got to the first bolt, stepping onto a ledge on the rock wall on the right to rest. Now that I have reread the description, I agree it is 5.10a after reaching the first bolt by climbing the chimney to the right of it. My partner top-roped the arete from the base without using the rocks on either side, and thought it was hard 5.10 or 5.11.
By splitclimber
Jul 27, 2011

Yeah, the lower section is hard 10 for sure. ended up stemming it.

It could use a little more cleaning on the right side of the arete.

Instead of 4th classing the bottom, I climbed the blocky rocks that provided some fun boulder moves (vo), then traversed above and next to the small conifer to the chimney/arete.

perfect rating for the far side though, back to sandbags, right outdooreric? :)
By Ari G
Oct 23, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Fun route after the first bolt... but getting there requires either sliding alongside an extremely sharp and spikey tree (ugh) or some fairly committing moves right and above the tree. Way more fun on toprope (easier to avoid the tree)... And careful to dodge the tree on your way down!

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