|The Far Side
This route is on the protruding arete in the gully between "Death to the Right" and "Feelin' Your Oats." 4th class up the initial short face to a big ledge. Climb blocks for a couple moves to the first bolt. Commit to the pocketed arete and take it to the top of the cliff (bottom edge of The Chief formation). Much of the route can be chimneyed to the right at an easier grade, ~5.9.
The more you stay on the arete, the more classic and challenging it is.
4 bolts to anchor on ledge. Offers easy access to The Chief and upper cliff areas. If you are at the Chief this route offers a very straightforward rappel down to the lower tier base (easier than hiking around).
|By Floyd Hayes|
Jul 12, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
After clipping the first bolt by climbing the chimney to the right, I downclimbed and tried leading the arete from the base of the arete and thought it was much harder than 5.10a. I found myself instinctively sticking a foot out on the rock wall to the left and, when I got to the first bolt, stepping onto a ledge on the rock wall on the right to rest. Now that I have reread the description, I agree it is 5.10a after reaching the first bolt by climbing the chimney to the right of it. My partner top-roped the arete from the base without using the rocks on either side, and thought it was hard 5.10 or 5.11.
Jul 27, 2011
Yeah, the lower section is hard 10 for sure. ended up stemming it.
It could use a little more cleaning on the right side of the arete.
Instead of 4th classing the bottom, I climbed the blocky rocks that provided some fun boulder moves (vo), then traversed above and next to the small conifer to the chimney/arete.
perfect rating for the far side though, back to sandbags, right outdooreric? :)