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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Cereal Killer 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tim Kemple sr. 12-99
Page Views: 3,249
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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placing a draw from the nook...

Description 

Wickedly-pumpy jug-hauling out the roof start, big moves and swollen forearms. This leads to a weird mantel into a little, pretty comfy nook capped with another roof move, but do not despair, this is the last hard move on the route. After mantling, follow the bolts up the 5.9 slab to the chains.

A really fun climb, though if power and reach are against you, it might be more challenging. I found it to be pretty easy when I was climbing and training in the gym a lot, but now that I've gone all techy it is tough. I did find a totally static way to do the crux so work it out to your personal strengths.

Location 

Starting on the usually well-chalked holds on the right-hand side of the cave and traversing up and left along the roof.
The start may be wet from seepage.

Protection 

8 bolts to anchor.


Photos of Cereal Killer Slideshow Add Photo
a shot of mike in the thick of the steep stuff...
a shot of mike in the thick of the steep stuff...
otey makes the clip from the nook below the roof...
otey makes the clip from the nook below the roof.....
Mike making the clip before the awkward mantel type move...
Mike making the clip before the awkward mantel typ...
Old Pic of Max on Cereal Killer entering the crux
Old Pic of Max on Cereal Killer entering the crux
Leading Cereal Killer on the Armed and Dangerous Wall at Rumney
Leading Cereal Killer on the Armed and Dangerous W...
otey feeling his way through an onsight...
otey feeling his way through an onsight...
Otey mantels over the roof to end the bussines section of the route...
Otey mantels over the roof to end the bussines sec...
Cereal Killer
Cereal Killer

Comments on Cereal Killer Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007

It is not a bad idea to preplace the first few draws if you have a stick clip. The stone on the ground is very close. An attentive belayer is a must. A very fun route requiring burl and balance
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 30, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I agree with Mark, I've seen someone dropped by their belayer right onto that rock!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 9, 2008

Check out this video of my friend Kevin flashing Cerial Killer...

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 10, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Pretty cool video shot from a couple nice angles. I never thought a kneebar pad was an obligatory tactic for this route, though.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 11, 2008

glad you liked the video...

i explain the kneepad/kneebar in the video description saying something like i know you dont need it but i just love kneebars and i had a new pad my friends and i wanted to play with...

though you dont need it i found it made that first move much more relaxing and fun which is how i like to climb...
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 14, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Sorry. I didn't bother to expand the explanation of the video on Youtube until a few moments ago. Is this videography thing a new calling for you and future MP posts? (Might not be a bad idea...)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 15, 2008

id love to get a better camera and get more in to videos... i shot this on a point and shoot job and id love to use a real video cam...
By Pat McGinn
Aug 29, 2009

This is my favorite flash so far. I think stick clipping the first two draws was a smart idea, because falling onto the rock would have hurt. You get a really good rest in that corner if you lay down...