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Cereal Buttress

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Name Unknown 
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Cereal Buttress 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 16, 2006
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Description 

The Cereal Buttress is possibly the most popular spot at Rumbling Bald. It has a plentiful variety of routes, some multi-pitch; most are crack climbs, from moderate on up.

This area got its name back in the mid-70s, when pioneer Jeep Gaskin was scouting out the rock on a rainy day. Back home, he reported finding a "surreal buttress" and someone jokingly asked what kind of "cereal" it was. The name stuck.


Getting There 

From the parking lot, follow the rutted old jeep road up right about three-fourths of a mile to where it peters into a trail. Follow the trail past a boulderfield; at an obvious split, go left for the left end of Cereal Buttress or the Comatose Area; go right for the main Cereal Buttress and Cereal Wall.


29 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',6],['5.9',3],['5.10',7],['5.11',9],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cereal Buttress:
Fruit Loops   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Obamanation   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 125'   
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack)   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sea Wolf   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R     Trad, 150'   
Granola   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Good Samaritans   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   
Frosted Flake   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mid-Life Crisis   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Doug Reed Solo   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Born Again   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Capt Crunch   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 80'   
Breakfast of Champions   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Whiskey For Breakfast   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   
Shredded Wheat   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Inner Peace   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Jack Be Nimble   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Frankenberry   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Hungry Jack   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Mennonite Surf Party   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Cereal Buttress

Featured Route For Cereal Buttress
Working through the steep opening moves on Fruit Loops.

Fruit Loops 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress
This is an outstanding route that any leader will enjoy, even if it's below your normal lead level. It's almost three climbs in one: crack climbing; chimney; and face climbing. Many people skip the second pitch, but it's lots of fun and very worthwhile.P1 - Start at a somewhat steep crack, working your way up with jams and some face holds. The going quickly gets easier/less steep, continue past some flake moves to the base of a chimney with bolted belay anchors (80').P2 -...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Cereal Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
A-pitch 1 belay of Fruit Loops <br />B- Granola belay <br />C- Frosted Flake belay <br />D- Breakfast of Champions belay <br />E- pitch 2 Fruit Loops (note climbers) <br />F- Good Samaritans <br />G- Frankenberry <br />H- Obamanation <br />I- Faith Based Initiative <br />J- Obamanation Continuation <br />K- Project <br />L- belay for F,G,H,I
BETA PHOTO: A-pitch 1 belay of Fruit Loops
B- Granola belay
C-...
Cereal Buttress area...Fruit Loops on the left side (behind the tree), Granola (middle crack) and Whiskey for Breakfast on the right.
Cereal Buttress area...Fruit Loops on the left sid...
Comments on Cereal Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Dillon
Dec 31, 2006

One of the most prominent aspects of its' surreality is the 'air-conditioning chimney'--you can hear the water gurgling back in there somewhere, and yet the thing appears as dry as can be. If you've blown it by showing up at the Bald on a hot, steamy summer's day, you'll appreciate this feature perhaps more than any other.

By Austin Cooner
Jul 20, 2009

Second the amazing 'air conditioning' from the cave. Unfortunately, it was closed off due to the white-nosed syndrome affecting local bat populations. Hopefully it'll be open soon for caving.