Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tricouni Nail/Cerberus
Select Route:
Cerberus 
East Face Rotert/Fowler Route 

Cerberus 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Royal Robbins
Page Views: 5,990
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 2, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
This is a photo that Paul Muehl had taken and prod...

Description 

This is one of the best routes in the Needles, and is a must do for any climber. The climbing is fantastic, the summit is very cool, and the simulrap is exhilarating.

From the gully between Tricouni Nail and Queen Pin, look for a few old fixed pins on a steep face. Climb past the drilled pins to a good stance on a shoulder. Sling the shoulder and move up and left towards a ring bolt, placing a medium stopper in a seam along the way to avoid a groudfall. Traverse right at the ringbolt to another bolt, and then fire for the top on good crystals.

The route is only half over on top. Belay the follower from the top. To rappel, toss one end of the rope off either side with the rope laying in between two of the horns. Take a deep breath, and make a counterweight rappel off opposite ends of the spire. The simulrappel or Needles rappel is pretty commonly used to descend from summits with no anhors in the Needles area, and this is one summit that seems to have been designed for this technique.


Protection 

Quickdraws for bolts and pins, long runner for a flake, medium stoppers.



Photos of Cerberus Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing Cerberus. 30 May '10. Photo: Nate Erickson.
Climbing Cerberus. 30 May '10. Photo: Nate Erickso...
The Famous Needles Rappel. <br />Chad Berger and John Wachter on the rope. Photo by the ChossMonkey
The Famous Needles Rappel.
Chad Berger and John Wa...
Leslie Hamilton photo, 1973.
Leslie Hamilton photo, 1973.
Ryan atop the Tricouni Nail after a misty rainy ascent on Memorial Day weekend.
Ryan atop the Tricouni Nail after a misty rainy as...
After the nut placement
After the nut placement
Photos by Adam Almquist
Photos by Adam Almquist
Simul-rapping off
Simul-rapping off
Brenda at the top of the Tricouni Nail.  Great climb!
Brenda at the top of the Tricouni Nail. Great cli...
Cool Shadows
Cool Shadows
At the flake
At the flake
Almost ready to belay. Summer 2002
Almost ready to belay. Summer 2002
Misty day summit of Cerberus
Misty day summit of Cerberus
Will utilizes the one great stance on this route before heading up into the unknown.
Will utilizes the one great stance on this route b...
The top
The top
My buddy Vince, Vedauwoo crack lover, bags his first Needles lead during Pinfest 07
My buddy Vince, Vedauwoo crack lover, bags his fir...
Cerberus Route with approximate location of the three pitons, the slingable horn, the ring bolt, and the bolt near the top
BETA PHOTO: Cerberus Route with approximate location of the th...
Chad Berger on the crux moves of Cerberus. John Wachter Belaying. Photo by Nathan Kutcher. Taken Sept 2001
Chad Berger on the crux moves of Cerberus. John Wa...
Flying up Cerberus
Flying up Cerberus
Initial moves
Initial moves
Comments on Cerberus Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Park City, UT
Feb 5, 2003



This is one of my favorite routes in the Needles. The climbing is very fun, the protection is more than adequate, and the simul-rappel off the summit horns is classic.

By wayniak
Jul 24, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun. Found it very open mid-late afternoon.Met a pair of climbers visiting from Japan. They drove over from the tower just to do this one route before heading back.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 17, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great climb for sure! We climbed there last week (9-12-2006) and never saw any other climbers. Lots of tourists taking our photos though. =) The route has three pitons down low, the flake to sling, a nice crack perfect for a #9 BD wired stopper, a ring pin and a final bolt before the summit--nicely protected!

The summit perch is amazing and the simul-rap was a blast!!

By Tradoholic
Jul 22, 2007

Favorite of my trip. As usual around here a little run out but the ring bolt half way up looks fairly new and would protect well. For the decent I lowered my second on the route side of the pin and then used him as my anchor to lower on the single strand down the other side with a 60m rope.

By Bob Kryzer
From: Minnesota
Oct 31, 2007

This route offers some great protection low on ther route to avoid ground falls, and some of the needles classic run outs near the top. Even has the best simul-rap in all of the black hills! Its totaly a classic!

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 15, 2008

Flake half-way up nicely takes a blue TCU. What a summit!

By quickdraw
Aug 17, 2008

Here's a video of Brent leading Tricouni at the BHCC Pinfest in July 2008.
video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5068660689695194897&hl=en

By quickdraw
Aug 17, 2008

Here is a link to photos of Brent climbing Tricouni and Eric just finishing the lead on Super Pin during July 2008 BHCC Pinfest:
picasaweb.google.com/wednesdaysrock/BHCCPhotosAug22008TenPin>>>

By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

If you're curious about the strength of that funky ring bolt/pin above the flake -- I ops tested it and the ring held quite well. Mental note for next time -- traverse right onto the shoulder from the ring pin. While I fell on lead at that spot a couple times, my wife climbed straight to the top with no problems at all. A truly great climb, as my wife reminded me several times this weekend :-)

By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Jul 21, 2012

Fun, well protected route and neat summit but the climbing itself is pretty run-of-the-ordinary 5.8 face climbing.