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All Locations >
Washington
> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Tumwater Canyon
> Castle Rock
> Upper Castle
Century
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 7
votes
Routes in Upper Castle
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Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Angel Dreads T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Blocks of Doom T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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By the Sea T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Devil's Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Devil's Fright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Directissima T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Equinox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hangdog T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Saber Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Saints T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short N' Sassy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Winter Solstice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ed Cooper, Ron Priebe, Bruce Gibbs,1959, 1st Free ascent: Eric Bjornstad, Ed Cooper, 1960 |
| Page Views: | 1,677 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Oct 23, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
The first pitch is thought provoking tricky climbing. Not a great first 5.8 lead.
This could be done in 2 or 3 pitches and you could avoid most of the upper Saber pitch by climbing further right.
This could be done in 2 or 3 pitches and you could avoid most of the upper Saber pitch by climbing further right.
Location
starts the same as the right hand start of Saber, veers right where Saber goes left. Be sure to protect this right finger traverse past ancient piton to LFC layback up and left around small roof ( Crux) up arrete of buttress, either belay on pedestal with view of Saber, or continue up to big ledge .A big roof looms overhead to the right, traverse left around roof to easy 5th class climbing to summit.
Photos
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