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Cactus Cliff
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Are You Experiential? 
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Book of Dude-Aronomy, The 
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Cactus Cliff Addict 
Candy for Big Kids 
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") 
Cellulite District 
Centurion Enigma 
Cheeseburger In Paradise 
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Usual Suspects, The 
Utter To A Scream 
Wadsworth Boulevard 
White Punks on Pockets 
Whiteman's Burden 
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You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine 

Centurion Enigma 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Todd Anderson
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 23, 2011
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Centurion Enigma topo.

Description 

This line has some nice rock and engaging movement, but a large ledge between the 2nd & 3rd bolts makes for a risky outing. The crux is basically the 2-3 body lengths of climbing directly above the ledge, and it would be hard for your belayer to keep you from hitting the ledge in the event of a fall. This would make a nice TR after climbing Illegal Smile, but if you're pushing your limits at the .12b grade, there are plenty of better options at Cactus.

Begin with attention-getting moves on sloping edges to summit a huge, detached flake. Once atop the ledge, traverse right to avoid blank rock. Make thin, reachy moves to get established on the wall, then contortionist high-steps and huge reaches to span the blankness between horizontal rails. A brief, juggy lieback ends at a good shake, then crank one more huge reach to a jug pocket before merging with Illegal Smile.


Location 

At the left end of Cactus, this is immediately right of the classic buttress of "Illegal Smile".


Protection 

~8 bolts to 2BA. The last 3 bolts & anchor are shared with Illegal Smile. The bolt line weaves quite a bit, so consider some long draws, or (better) use the Crimpin' & Pimpin' start to reach the top of the ledge.



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