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 ADVANCED
Radio Head
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bends, The T,S 
Black Velvet T 
Blinders S 
Centrist T 
Crandall Hammer Arete S 
Crosshairs S 
Doom Seam S 
Freezer Burn T,S 
Gap, The S 
Giant Dihedral T 
Gigantor T,S 
Heat Stroke S 
Lady Fingers T,S 
Left of Center S 
Line-of-Sight S 
Lord of the Flies S 
Man Hands T,S 
Meter Maid T,S 
Mighty Mouse S 
Minimalist T,S 
Mix Up T 
My Left Foot S 
Not Alone T 
Radio One S 
Refiner S 
Right of Center S 
Shimminy Cricket T,S 
Shiny Face S 
Sun Burn S 
Sunrise Slab S 
Super Nova T,S 
Tilt S 
Tilt-a-Whirl T,S 
Trail of Tears S 
Two Edged Sword T,S 
White Dwarf T,S 

Centrist 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 521
Submitted By: Hiro on Sep 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: The crack in the center.
Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the center rack on the Gully Slab Wall. Once on the ledge below the crack, step up a bit on good footholds to get your hands in the crack. As you step up more, you can transition completely into the crack, which you can continue until you reach the shared ledge near the top of the route. There are many face holds and feet, keep off these if you want to practice your crack climbing.

Towards the top, you reach a ledge shared by all three routes on this slab - this is probably the crux for many, as you need to climb up onto a slight overhang. By climbing all the routes on this wall, you could make various attempts on this top portion.

It is not a bad route if you want to introduce someone to crack climbing - they can switch to face holds if they get tired and it's low angle, so not as painful as complete vertical.


Location 

This is at the far (left, north) end of the wall. After finding Radio Head, walk all the way along the wall where you'll likely spot the slab itself, but you'll also see a somewhat dirty gully which takes you up to it. There is ample space to sit, dump your gear at the top of the gully.


Protection 

Most simple would be an assortment of finger and hand-size pieces.



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By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Oct 29, 2012

This is a fun crack, the top is a challenge, but at least the top is bolt protected.