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Crag X
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Baby Lizard 
Centre Street 
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Gord's Block 
Out to Lunge 
Up From Despair 
Virgin Soil 

Centre Street 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: J. Campbell, A. Hughes, 1980
Page Views: 415
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Sep 2, 2007
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Description 

This climb takes the most prominent of the left angling cracks in the face of the lower Crag X wall. A cruxy finger crack is passed before the cracks zigs to the right and up to a ledge. This ledge has a chain belay, but the climb continues for another 30 feet so you have the choice of doing it as one pitch or breaking it up.

Either way, the climb gets harder at this point and the corner crack above the ledge doesn't take good pro until you have made a few moves, but you can protect the moves off the ledge with a .75 camalot in a crack to the right of the corner.

Very strenuous climbing, but with good, if tough to place, gear finishes the climb up the corner.


Location 

Start on a nice little terrace at the base of the lower wall of Crag X, just left of the stacked blocks that form the short crack climb Gord's Block.


Protection 

A standard rack, with a few doubles of cams in the finger to tight hand sizes and a good selection of small to medium nuts is sufficient. There is a two bolt rap station at the top. Double ropes will take you down, otherwise go to the chains on the ledge and make a second rap. Watch then ends of the rope, even from this intermediate station.



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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 2, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

We did this in two pitches, which I would do again. A fall from the crux with 35m of rope out might drop you onto a ledge.

P1 really fun, maybe 10a or so. Expect a section where the gear gets fiddly.

P2 is short but stout. The moves aren't hard, but hanging out and placing gear will definotely get you going.

A great route!

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 21, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

A #5 hb offset protects the initial moves off the ledge before good pro above. It's good enough and high enough to keep you off the ledge if you slip before the bigger crack above.

Doing this as one pitch is the way to go, IMHO. Also, a 70m gets you to the deck in one rap from the top with stretch.

By Hans
From: North Vancouver, BC
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Fantastic climb with great gear throughout. Do it as one pitch for the full experience. The upper part protected very well with small cams.

By Wesley Ashwood
From: Squamish, BC
Jul 19, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

What a great climb! I have walked past this tons of times and never climbed it. I agree, do it one pitch, way more fun. Extra finger size (blue metolius) to 0.75 is worth it, though the whole thing takes nuts its worth saving a few finger size pieces for the top.