The second biggest strip of ice from the east (left) side of the mountain. Cross the 'shrund at the place of most convenience for you and start climbing this calf burner. The ice starts out at a low angle and ramps up the higher you climb, up to about 60/70 degrees depending on which line you take. There may be a cornice on the top, and definitely watch for rocks falling down along the sides of the route. When I did the route we simulclimbed all but the last vertical section, which definitely speeds up the climb.
You can descend via the west ridge or the south side of the mountain. We went off the south side of the mountain which takes so very long and you never know exactly if the "gully" you chose cliffs out or goes all the way down. Their are a few raps of the back side that you may or may not find, and once down you have to walk all the way around another mountain to get back to the hut. Although I have not gone up or down the west ridge, I would recommend going that way, for time and safety. But, if you want the full tour, and a hell of a view off the back side, go that way.
Ice screws plus or minus a picket or two, the later in the season the less the snow and the more the ice.
Looking up the route, Aug 06. The left side of th...
One of the rapells of the back side of the mountai...
Matt Stellner leading the route, ready to break in...