Central Wall Rock Climbing
Dennis Buice having a blast on the FA of Spidey.
The Central Wall really includes all routes from the big gully near the Amphitheater (to climbers left) and the Circus Wall (to climbers right) on the Sentinel Buttress. Most of the documented climbing, however, lies closer to the Sentinel Buttress than anything else.
Some routes get a little sun in the afternoon, but even in summer it seems like you get enough breeze or enough shade from the trees and roofs high above to keep you comfortable. The wall is perfect in spring and fall and too cold in winter.
The quality of the rock and the climbing on the Central Wall is excellent, and the difficulty varies. The wall is home to some of the best easy routes in the Piedmont, and also has some high quality moderate lines and a few hard ones that have not yet been listed on this site.
Once you've taken the left onto the powerline road, walk for a few minutes until you see a park sign on the right pointing to the Sentinel Buttress trail. Turn right and head up the trail, following signs for the Sentinel Buttress. Once you get close to the wall, the trail splits and either heads left toward the Central Wall or right toward the Sentinel Buttress. Take the left and you'll meet the wall somewhere near Washboard and Hopscotch.
Weather station 4.2 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Central Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Central Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Central Wall:
Hopscotch 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Easy Hard 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Blue Balls 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Head Jam 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Washboard 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Blue Chock 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For Central Wall
Blue Chock 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a NC
: Moore's Wall
: Central Wall
Head up the left leaning flake at the start. Either build a belay at a good stance above this (before the route diagonals left and up again) or be very mindful of rope drag. After the stance head up and left to the crux. Then bust right from a nice stance on a technical traverse, crux 2. Make for the overhanging corner and land the big tuna out right and belay on gear....[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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