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 ADVANCED
Central Wall

Select Route:
Alice in Banana Land T,S 
All the Nasties T 
Banana Patch T 
Bitchin Chimney T 
Brain Dead S 
Cowboyography T,S 
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 
Hueco Syndrome S 
Lunacy T 
Lunar Abstract S 
Malice In Bucketland T 
Sea of Holes S 
Uriah's Heap T 
Walking on the Moon T 
Window Pain S 

Central Wall  


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Location: 31.92218, -106.04789 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,007
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Aug 15, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Malice Area at the Central Wall.

Some areas require a guide.

Description 

The large wall on the west side of North Mountain. Scope it out as you drive into the park. The central wall is the section between Split Boulder and the huge corner with the tree in it.

Getting There 

Park near the warm-up boulder. Walk along rd.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.6 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',8],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central Wall:
Uriah's Heap   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Divine Wind / All the Nasties   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Malice In Bucketland   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   
All the Nasties   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 350'   
Alice in Banana Land   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 120'   
Window Pain   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Sea of Holes   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Sport, 2 pitches, 350'   
Hueco Syndrome   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Classics in Central Wall

Featured Route For Central Wall
Peter leading Alice in Banana Land - huecos galore...

Alice in Banana Land 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  TX : Hueco Tanks : ... : Central Wall
Reach high for a jug (may be a difficult start for the shorter folks), and trend up and right to the first bolt about 15 feet up. Continue up through the bolts. The bolt spacing is enough to make you think, but not terrible for someone who is solid at the grade. Fairly well protected for Hueco standards. Excellent climbing will eventually bring you to a point where there is a crack and no more bolts. The options here are a few medium to larger sized nuts, some small cams, or running it out.The ...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Comments on Central Wall Add Comment
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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 5, 2006
North Mountain is one of the greatest climbing areas in the country for the 5.9/10b climber. The 11s look great too but I can't say first hand. Leaders should be solid at trad since bolt routes are sporty not sport climbs. I have climber over 60 days on North Mountain and loved them all. There is not really a bad climb on the wall. Now that park has restrictions its a ghost town. Most climbers boulder so you can have North Mountain to yourself. Window Pain, Sea of Holes and Indescent Exposure all rate an honest Mega-classic rating.