The Central Sandstone areas are bluffs littered with boulders that rise out of the central plains of Adams County. Located between Adams-Friendship and Wisconsin Dells, are Rattlesnake Mound and Quincy Bluff Reserve. Both really cool, state owned areas, with easy access and great sandstone.
(**Quincy Bluff is actually jointly owned by the Nature Conservancy and the state, and no climbing is allowed at Quincy at this time** -Eggert)
Rattlesnake has more rock and established problems, but both areas are worth a trip. About 5 years ago, a couple tornadoes touched down right on top of Rattlesnake and threw trees all over the area. Locals along with the state cleared a lot of the windthrow. Some boulders are still covered but its not bad.
A Wisconsin Atlas helps for this one:
Rattlesnake is just off of HWY 13 north of Wis Dells. If driving north, turn left onto Edgewood Dr. and continue west for a couple miles. Turn right (north) on 14th Ct, and the bluffs are just to your right. Park where you see the rock at the saddle, and hike to boulders. Boulders are scattered near both sides of each bluff. Distances are close so makes the hiking easy.
Quincy Bluff is located just south west of Rattlesnake. If heading north on Hwy 13 turn left onto County HWY H. Take H west to Evergreen Ave. Turn right and follow Evergreen to 16th Dr. Turn right here and head north. Quincy is a few miles up on your right hand side. There is a small grass parking lot with a state reserve sign ,with maps, etc. Walk the trail always staying left around to the bluff. The Main Boulder is at the far end of the rim. Boulders are scattered here.
Start sitting with right hand on undercling/rail and left hand on a solid roundish crimp out to the left. Put feet anywhere below the rail, pull up, and swing/lunge up to a sweet left hand crimp. Reposition feet and bump right hand up rail and/or to good hold above the rail (or any of the ok but not as good holds). Find a good foot and have fun the rest of the way up.This start has probably been done before but I thought that it was a natural and fun way to start. It adds a couple of good moves ...[more]Browse More Classics in WI
I deleted my comment. Despite the desire to go and finish that one great problem, I fully respect that this is a nature preserve and they do not want any number of a list of activities in the preserve, including climbing.
There's more than enough at G Dodge, and the one boulder isn't much to fight over.
I agree with Jonathan. Quincy is a fun little spot, but not worth getting into trouble with the state, it should be left alone if climbing is not allowed. I hope that my posting of this area doesn't cause for more problems and access issues. Thanks guys for digging up the literature on preserves, it will help others understand the issue.
Yes Jim I agree. To be clear, climbing is not allowed only at Quincy Bluff and Preserve-- it's ok to climb at the other areas listed for Central Sandstone on this page. Jim have you called the Nature Conservancy to ask why or if there is anything that can be done? I would be willing to do that (fully expecting to get shut down). The main boulder at Quincy looks so good that it would be worth at least a call if not a petition. Of course it's still within their rights to say No Way.
It's my opinion that the area should be left on here for historical sake however. Thanks Remo for posting.
We have an area here in RI that is joint owned by the DEM (ri's version of the dnr), audubon, and the Nature Conser. A deal with the state has allowed climbing on dem property with exception of one spot (not there). That said the place in question with tri ownersip has some of the best granite climbing in the state and was developed some 40 plus years ago. TNC does not allow climbing here and has posted as such. Worse yet they use tax payers money enforcing their rules with a full time DEM ranger who patrols the property on a regular basis. I'm amazed the TNC has allowed hunting on some of their properties in WI because around here hunting on TNC property is strictly forbiden. Perhaps this angle might somehow allow some room for climbing if handled properly. Good luck with that. On a side note the TNC are no angels. Read on if your interested in TNC corruption. prfamerica.org/indices/LandTrustsNatl-Index.html