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Central Pinnacles

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Bonsai Boulder 
Camp Rock 
Claim Jumper Wall 
Coyote Crag 
Doc Holiday Wall 
Gold Wall 
Gunsmoke Wall 
Incinerator Wall 
Mad Cow Wall 
Moonshine Dome 
Motherlode Rock 
Pistol Whipped Wall 
Prairie Squid Wall 
Rose Red Wall 
Skyy Slab 
Thunderbird Wall 
Tombstone Pit 
Wilbur's Tombstone 

Central Pinnacles 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,500'
Location: 34.308, -116.8786 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 327,715
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 14, 2007
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Christian Daly floats up the HVP classic, 'Bye Cra...

Description 

This area covers all of the formations from the northern parking area south to Camp Rock and includes Coyote Crag, Claim Jumper Wall, Pistol Whipped Wall, Motherlode Rock, Gunsmoke Wall, Thunderbird Wall and much more.

This area truly is the heart of the Pinnacles and offers the greatest concentration of routes with the least amount of hiking in the entire region. The abundance of well-protected, featured moderates in the area makes it especially popular during the height of the season, so be warned if seeking solitude.

Don't miss climbs of the area include Gold Standard (5.6), Bye Crackie (5.7), Coyotes at Sunset (5.8), Black Magic Poodle (5.9), Claim Jumper (5.10a), One Armed Bandit (5.10a), Ricochet (5.10a), Pistol Pete (5.10a), Coyotes in the Henhouse (5.10d), Stake Your Claim (5.10d), Doc's Holiday (5.10d) and The Incinerator (5.12a).


Getting There 

The northern parking area is located at the edge of the Central Pinnacles, making it an obvious choice to park and walk the 5-10 minutes required to reach any of the crags in the Central Pinnacles.

It's also possible to park at the southern parking area, near Parking Lot Rock, and walk north for 10 minutes to reach the southern end of the area near Coyote Crag.


160 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',38],['2 Stars',78],['1 Star',43],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',22],['5.7',13],['5.8',18],['5.9',23],['5.10',61],['5.11',19],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central Pinnacles:
Psychedelic Sluice   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - East Face
Gold Standard   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Gold Wall
Bye Crackie   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Coyote Crag
Shoot at Will   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Tombstone Pit
Coyotes at Sunset   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Coyote Crag
Golden Poodle   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Coyote Crag
Black Magic Poodle   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Coyote Crag
Claim Jumper   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Claim Jumper Wall
Golden Nugget   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - East Face
Fire in the Hole   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - East Face
Ricochet   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Pistol Whipped Wall
Powder Keg   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Pistol Pete   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Doc Holiday Wall
One Armed Bandit   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Claim Jumper Wall
Tombstone Shadow   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Tombstone Pit
Coyotes in the Henhouse   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Claim Jumper Wall
Doc's Holiday   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Doc Holiday Wall
Long Arm of The Law   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - West Face
Public Hanging   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Claim Jumper Wall
The Incinerator   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Incinerator Wall
Browse More Classics in Central Pinnacles

Featured Route For Central Pinnacles
Clipping the chains on Coyotes in the Henhouse (5.10d), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Coyotes in the Henhouse 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Claim Jumper Wall
The thin and somewhat reachy start on small edges is the crux, and after the second bolt enjoyable moves on large but somewhat questionable holds lead to the finishing bulge, which is rife with excellent incuts making for a spectacular and enjoyable finish. A classic of the area and a highly recommeded route for the grade....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Central Pinnacles Slideshow Add Photo
An overview map with some climbs to get your bearings.
BETA PHOTO: An overview map with some climbs to get your beari...
Overview for some of the Central Pinnacles crags, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Overview for some of the Central Pinnacles crags, ...
Baby rattler just off the trail near the Claim Jumper Wall, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Baby rattler just off the trail near the Claim Jum...
Relics from the past, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Relics from the past, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
High above the trees on Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
High above the trees on Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holco...
Midway up Hidden Gold (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Midway up Hidden Gold (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pinnac...
Nearing the top of Powder Keg (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Nearing the top of Powder Keg (5.10a), Holcomb Val...
Central Pinnacles from the west, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Central Pinnacles from the west, Holcomb Valley Pi...
Climber on the <a href='/v/thunderbird-wall/105837586'>Thunderbird Wall</a>, in the beautiful Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
Climber on the Thunderbird Wall, in the beautiful Hol...
Old marker for the nearby Mammoth Mine, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Old marker for the nearby Mammoth Mine, Holcomb Va...
a beautiful day on the Lizard Head.
a beautiful day on the Lizard Head.
Moonshine Dome
Moonshine Dome
rope bags have other uses, you know...
rope bags have other uses, you know...
Weathered snag and clouds, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Weathered snag and clouds, Holcomb Valley Pinnacle...
Mt. San Gorgonio from the central pinnacles.
Mt. San Gorgonio from the central pinnacles.
Frozen water pocket, Holcomb Valey Pinnacles
Frozen water pocket, Holcomb Valey Pinnacles
A portion of the road into the Central Pinnacles, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
A portion of the road into the Central Pinnacles, ...
Saddle Rock, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Saddle Rock, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Comments on Central Pinnacles Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dynomight510
Sep 3, 2010

The guide book is difficult to find on-line. I found it here:
www.mountain-n-air.com/Hidden-Treasures-East-p/9780972558518>>>

By Climb To Safety
From: california
Sep 19, 2013

after much praise about the pinnacles from Chris D, i finally made it out here. Can't wait to go back, the rock is fantastic, only wish the climbs were longer.

By Chris D
From: the couch
Nov 7, 2013

Ryan,

You should climb then down-climb each route twice. Then they will seem long. Soon, an El Cap Day will be in the bag.