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 ADVANCED
Lower Security Risk
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Agony and Ecstasy, The 
Central Insecurity 
Ecstasy of the People 
Eldo of the People 
Enema of the People 
Enemy of the People 
Men Are From Mars 
Prism 
Scraping By 
Security Risk 

Central Insecurity 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 182
Submitted By: Pinklebear on May 12, 2013
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  • Description 

    Central Insecurity climbs the blank tan/red/orange face in the middle of the Lower Security Risk crag, just left of the big corner of Security Risk (the route). Recognize this fine climb by a small, angular roof down low followed by a long stretch of blank face. This is a great, technical, face climb: sustained, powerful, pumpy, and crimpy. It felt like all of 5.12d: "d" as in, "Don't bother looking for any jugs, cause there aren't any."

    Climb up big flake features to under the roof, lean out, clip the first bolt, and pimp up to the second clip just over the lip. Small squarecuts lead up the face to the third bolt, soon turning to potato chips that will require your best Grrr Face.

    The climbing from bolts three through seven is very sustained, technical, and initially perplexing, but stay with it: with patience, it all comes together, involving slab stands, thumberclings, microcrimps, gastons, sidepulls, and all measure of granite-face funkery. A hard traverse past bolt six (this is a tough clip) gets you to easier ground, with one little surprise passing the final bolt.

    Wear edging shoes and try this with good conditions.


    Location 

    This is in the center of Lower Security Risk crag.


    Protection 

    Nine bolts to double-bolt anchors.



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    By Mark Rolofson
    Mar 5, 2014
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

    Glad to see that Matt climbed this route. It is a great route that rarely gets done. I have not returned to repeat this technical vertical face now for 19 years. I established this route with Bob D'Antonio on February 3, 1995 & then repeated it a few days (redpointing it twice). Ian Spencer Greene redpointed it on the day I repeated it, being the second person to redpoint the route.
    Since then, I have seen almost no one on this climb.