|Lower Security Risk
Central Insecurity climbs the blank tan/red/orange face in the middle of the Lower Security Risk crag, just left of the big corner of Security Risk (the route). Recognize this fine climb by a small, angular roof down low followed by a long stretch of blank face. This is a great, technical, face climb: sustained, powerful, pumpy, and crimpy. It felt like all of 5.12d: "d" as in, "Don't bother looking for any jugs, cause there aren't any."
Climb up big flake features to under the roof, lean out, clip the first bolt, and pimp up to the second clip just over the lip. Small squarecuts lead up the face to the third bolt, soon turning to potato chips that will require your best Grrr Face.
The climbing from bolts three through seven is very sustained, technical, and initially perplexing, but stay with it: with patience, it all comes together, involving slab stands, thumberclings, microcrimps, gastons, sidepulls, and all measure of granite-face funkery. A hard traverse past bolt six (this is a tough clip) gets you to easier ground, with one little surprise passing the final bolt.
Wear edging shoes and try this with good conditions.
This is in the center of Lower Security Risk crag.
Nine bolts to double-bolt anchors.
|By Mark Rolofson|
Mar 5, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b
Glad to see that Matt climbed this route. It is a great route that rarely gets done. I have not returned to repeat this technical vertical face now for 19 years. I established this route with Bob D'Antonio on February 3, 1995 & then repeated it a few days (redpointing it twice). Ian Spencer Greene redpointed it on the day I repeated it, being the second person to redpoint the route.
Since then, I have seen almost no one on this climb.