Central Gully Rock Climbing
Standing atop the third pitch of Spontaneous Order...
The Central Gully of the Fortress has a very different character than the Right-side Gully. Whereas the Right-side is massive and towering (with 3 huge peaks looming overhead) as well as steep and loose, the Central Gully is low-angle and comfortable. The Central Gully is actually quite pretty. The routes in the Central Gully are also more moderate in nature.
The best way to access the Central Gully is to climb Footprints and then walk uphill to the base of Snickerdoodle or Blue In Green.
To move from the top of Snickerdoodle over to the base of Rational Expectations & Magali's Arete, one must rappel about 30 feet, step across a chimney and then scramble for a few feet. It is actually easier to rappel to the base of Snickerdoodle and then climb Blue In Green to reach the start of Rational Expectations & Magali's Arete.
For a detailed photo of the Central Gully that includes climbing and rappel routes, click here
Weather station 5.2 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Central Gully
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Central Gully
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Central Gully:
Featured Route For Central Gully
Blue In Green 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b CA
: Central Coast
: ... : Central Gully
Start to the right of the "Footprints" anchor, up slabs with 3 bolts and pass a prominent pine tree to its right. A #2 Camalot can be useful below the tree, and you can also sling the tree for added protection. A steep move (5.6) leads to easier climbing. Stay left at the top to exit directly onto Lunch Ledge. This is a varied pitch with interesting moves. It is a much better (and easier) way to access Lunch Ledge than ascending Snickerdoodle and rapping to the ledge.Direct start variation...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Jesse Groves sits atop the spectacular summit of S...
Patty Fienup relaxes on "Lunch Ledge," m...
Jesse Groves rappels west, into the Right-Side Gul...
BETA PHOTO: The following photo depicts a highly-recommended c...
BETA PHOTO: Central Gully, right side.
BETA PHOTO: Central gully routes
BETA PHOTO: Central Gully climbing and rappel routes.
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 1, 2008
On April 1, Jesse Groves and I climbed an awesome circuit that began in the Central Gully and finished in the Right-Side Gully. We started on Footprints, at the base of the Central Gully, and climbed 4 pitches to the top of Seven Steps (with one rappel/scramble to link Snickerdoodle to Rational Expectations). From the summit of Seven Steps, we rappelled West into the Right-Side Gully by descending to the base of Adaptive Expectations.
This circuit was an awesome tour of the Fortress and is highly recommended to anyone. For a photo/topo, click here
UPDATE: My recommendation has been superseded by the completion of Spontaneous Order which was made possible by Romain's excellent route "Blue In Green."