First ascent in Huntington Ravine - also one of the longest routes in the ravine. Watch for avalanches.
Editor's Note: The ice grade varies greatly depending on the amount of snow, from the NE Ice "1" (I'm not really sure what that is, since I thought "Ice "1" was used for very moderate glacial travel.) to about "2 / 2+" when there's little snow and lots of water & cold. This is a long climb, second only to Damnation in length, although most of it is higher-angle snow. (R. Hall)
Once you hit the Alpine Garden from the top of the climb, you can either descend down the climb (if you're comfortable on this "steep" terrain) or walk left to the Escape Hatch or take Lion Head Trail (recommended - provides an amazing walk along the Alpine Garden). Or follow the cairns to the summit - can follow several trails or the auto road off the mountain. The auto road will not drop you off at Pinkham Notch, so only use in emergency situations.
Snow stakes & ice screws
From: Somerville, MA
Mar 21, 2010
Mostly snow, a few sections with soft ice. Felt some hard ice underneath if you wanted to place screws. Minor icefall coming down off of central buttress.