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Central Gully, Mt. Washington Beta
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By Avalon
From East Longmeadow MA
Nov 23, 2013
Gunks

My friend and I are looking to make a trip this winter to do an alpine style ascent of Central Gully. I'm looking for info on where to park, approach distance, time it takes to ascend and descend (average as I'm aware everyone is different), and best month to go. Anyone with experience on this please post or PM me. Thanks- Joe


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By Josh Wood
From Oneonta, NY
Nov 23, 2013
hotlum / bolum route on Shasta

Park at Pinkham notch visitors center. It took us 1:45 (hustling with packs of overnight gear) to get to hermit lake leanto, which is a bit beyond the trail to Huntington ravine. It took 2 hours to get from hermit lake to the base of Odell's. I don't remember the total climb time, but we started late, waited in line to climb the route and came down in the dark.


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By Mark Lynch
Nov 24, 2013

Same as above. You can also do day trips from Pinkham. A fit team can leave pinkham, climb a gully and descend via Lions Head in 6-8 hours or faster.
Call or check the AMC website for all sorts of information regarding weather, trail conditions, and shelter availability.
You can also overnight at the Harvard Cabin (not affiliated with the AMC) just off the Tuckerman Ravine Trail on the way to Huntington Ravine. Heated cabin and restored last year. Web site for info and reservations/availability.
Be sure to check weather forecast for your trip and avalanche conditions (ideally follow the snowpack) via the Mt Washington OBS and Avy forecast via Mt Washington Avalanche Forecast.


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By Nate K
From Bozeman, MT
Nov 30, 2013
dirt bagging around cody

takes about 2 hours from the parking lot at pinkham to get to the base of the climb and about one to two hours to climb it. Finding the bottom of the gully in mt. washington whiteout can be hard


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By Avalon
From East Longmeadow MA
Nov 30, 2013
Gunks

Thanks for the help so far.


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By Matt Shove
From Ragged Mountain
Dec 1, 2013

Go to IME and get the guidebook. That's all the beta you will need. Likely the most straitforward route on the hill.


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By cjdrover
From Somerville, MA
Dec 1, 2013
Taken at MWV Icefest 2014.

www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org/

Check this obsessively.

Don't be these guys -> www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org/search-rescue/2012-20>>>


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By Nick Grant
From Natick, MA
Dec 11, 2013
A photo of me on Across the Universe taken by the Strandman back in '83.

Avalon, do not walk up to the Hermit Lake shelters. That is totally wrong. Hermit Lake is at the bottom of Tuck's. To get to Huntington's, park at Pinkham, walk up the Tuckerman Ravine trail a little more than a mile, and you'll see the sign for the Huntington Ravine trail on your right. Don't take it (you could, but in winter there's a faster alternative). Keep on going up the Tuckerman trail for about a half a mile and take the Huntington Ravine fire road (the cat track) that goes off right. This leads past the Harvard cabin and right up into the ravine. You'll then make your way through the big boulder field (some massive), heading toward the very middle of the ravine. Central Gully is unmistakable — it splits the ravine and is its most prominent feature. In good conditions, you can get to the base of the climb in two hours from the parking lot if you're fit, travel light, and hustle. Know that, later in the winter, Central turns into a snow climb. You just walk up. To the left of Central is Pinnacle Gully which is steeper and narrower (you'll see it—the approach is the same). Pinnacle is always an ice climb, and it's the best route in Huntington's. Have fun — it's a different world up there, different from anything else in New England. Really alpine.


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